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Farm-to-table Modern American cuisine is the prevalent style in the Napa Valley and Sonoma County, but this encompasses both the delicate preparations of Yountville’s Thomas Keller, whose restaurants include The French Laundry, and the upscale comfort food served throughout the Wine Country. The quality (and hype) often means high prices, but you can find appealing, inexpensive eateries, especially in Napa, Calistoga, Sonoma, and Santa Rosa.
Building on the success of Sushi Koshō across the street, chef Jake Rand opened this "Champagne and bivalves" sidewalk café specializing in raw and cooked seafood accompanied by sides like marvelously crispy duck-fat fries and an iceberg salad Louie with rock shrimp, avocado, smoked bacon, and confit tomato. Straddling two garagelike industrial spaces with indoor and outdoor seating, Oyster opens at 2 pm, making it a good stop for a late lunch or early dinner.
Willi's occupies a corner storefront with street-side outdoor seating and a compact dining room that curls around the full bar. The warm Maine lobster roll with garlic butter and fennel remains a hit among the small, primarily seafood-oriented plates, with the ceviches, local barbecued oysters (also Buffalo-style crispy), and bacon-wrapped scallops among its worthy rivals.
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