3 Best Sights in Juneau, the Inside Passage, and Southeast Alaska, Alaska

The primary commercial center for Prince of Wales is Craig, on the island's western shore. This town of 1,200 retains a hard-edged aura fast disappearing in the many Inside Passage towns where tourism now holds sway. Although sightseeing attractions are slim, the town exudes a frontier spirit, and its small-boat harbors buzz with activity.

While Alaskans of Haida ancestry live throughout Southeast, Hydaburg and Kasaan are the two main Haida communities in the state. The Alaskan Haida population can be traced back to a migration from Canada in the 1700s; the majority of tribal members continue to live in Canada, in Haida Gwaii (an area of British Columbia formerly called the Queen Charlotte Islands). The village of Hydaburg lies approximately 40 miles south of Klawock (via chip-sealed road), along scenic Sukkwan Strait. A small collection of totem poles occupies the center of town, and a nearby carving shed allows visitors to view artists at work. Contact the Hydaburg Cooperative Association (www.hcatribe.org) for details. 

A half-dozen miles from Craig is the Tlingit village of Klawock, with a sawmill, cannery, hatchery, and the island's only airport. The town is best known for its striking totem poles in Totem Park. Several of these colorful poles were moved here in the 1930s; others are more recent carvings. You can watch carvers restoring old totems at the carving shed, across the road from the grocery store.

Along the bay you'll find the Catholic church St. John by the Sea, with stained-glass windows picturing Native Alaskans.