El Mayab
El Mayab has a selection of machine-produced guayaberas, which go for less than the hand-embroidered variety.
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Browsing street stands and markets for small treasures is the way to shop here. Items made from shell make great souvenirs, as do guayabera shirts. Indeed, Veracruzanos have wholeheartedly adopted these famous embroidered tops (sometimes called wedding shirts) from the neighboring Yucatán. They're comfortable and lightweight, made of either cotton or linen (the linen ones are nicer). Oh, and don't tuck your guayabera into your pants.
With its sizable Cuban population, Veracruz does a brisk business in cigars. Around Plaza de Armas and throughout the zócalo there are plenty of street-side stands that specialize in both Mexican and Caribbean tobacco. For the largest variety, try the small kiosk on Avenida Independencia, in front of Gran Café del Portal; it sells Cohibas for less than a buck.
El Mayab has a selection of machine-produced guayaberas, which go for less than the hand-embroidered variety.
The family-run Guayaberas Fina Cab has high-quality hand-stitched shirts and dresses with embroidery that ranges from basic interlocking cables to elaborate floral designs.
Libros y Arte, near the zócalo, has a wonderful collection of books, including coffee-table volumes on the art and architecture of Veracruz, Mexican music, and plenty of maps and travel guides.
For a slice of Mexican life, head to the wildly vibrant Mercado Hidalgo, where you'll find artful displays of strawberries and chilies beside platters of cow eyeballs and chicken feet.
Stands lining the Paseo del Malecón sell ocean-related items: seashells and the beauty creams and powders derived from them; Coatepec coffee; T-shirts; and tacky stuffed frogs, iguanas, and armadillos.
The Plaza de las Artesanías Miguel Alemán market on the Paseo de Malecón purveys high-quality goods, including leather and jewelry, with high prices to match. It's open daily 11 to 8.