Torel Palace
Rua Camara Pestana 23, Lisbon, Lisbon 1150-078, Portugal
Why We Like It
The gorgeous palace buildings, stellar service, and spectacular views make Torel Palace a standout on Lisbon's hotel scene, and the pool, hotel, and bar are all extra strings in its bow. The nearby funicular is great fun to ride, and the hotel is close to big city nightlife and sightseeing, yet feels like a tranquil hideaway.
Fodor's Expert Review
This unique boutique hotel occupies two 19th Century palacetes (one pink, one blue) perched atop one of Lisbon's colinas (hills) and accessed by the city's oldest funicular lift. Jaw-dropping views of the city and the river can be appreciated from the terrace and pool, and the hotel feels like a real retreat from the big city despite being a short walk from Lisbon's sights and attractions. Breakfasts are served on the gorgeous terrace when weather allows, and a recently-added restaurant, Cave 23, is a chic spot for lunch or dinner. Decorated with great rococo flourish, the hotel pays homage to its royal past with rooms in the pink building named for Portuguese queens, and rooms in the blue building named in honor of past kings.
Tip The hotel is a perfect choice for anybody looking for a tranquil retreat without leaving the city.
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Room
In addition to its 26 rooms, Torel Palace has one self-contained villa and one apartment. Accommodations are all decorated and furnished with great aplomb, from the original artworks to the fine bed linens, and no two rooms are alike. Decor is classical-contemporary (think grand chandeliers and colorful modern armchairs) and some rooms have balconies with terrific views (those in the pink building have the edge over the blue building). The villa and apartment have kitchen facilities and private access to the gardens. Free in-room Wi-Fi, Nespresso machines, safes, and LCD TV with cable channels adds the necessary modernity.
Bathroom
Bathrooms are as carefully styled as the rooms, with ornate mirrors, vintage-style sinks, and powerful showers. Toiletries are by the Portuguese brand Saboaria Portugueza.
Lobby
With its parquet floors, colorful furnishings and attentive staff, the lobby at Torel Palace sets the tone for the boutique charms that await. Staff manning the small reception area could hardly be more welcoming, and greet each guest with wealth of information about the hotel and the city.
Pool
The pool at Torel Palace is a real gem. Set in lovely, leafy gardens, it's hard to believe you're just a stone's thrown from the hectic happenings of the city. One glance at that view over the characteristic red roofs and out to the shimmering River Tagus, reminds you that Lisbon life is close at hand.
You Should Know The small pool is for cooling down and posing for pictures, rather than serious swimming.
Dining
Cave 23, the fine dining restaurant at Torel Palace, is open to non-guests and attracts chic Lisbonites keen to escape the noise of the city and enjoy the culinary pizzazz of talented young chef Bernardo Agrela. The fish dishes impress, and no guest should miss the sardines when they're in season. There's elegant indoor dining, but when the sun shines the tables and chairs on the terrace are very much in demand.
Drinking
As Lisbon is blessed with sunny weather, good looks and plenty of hilltop viewpoints, locals make a beeline for rooftops and terraces when it comes to taking a tipple. The terrace at Cave 23 is hidden from the drink-seeking hordes, but has emerged as a favorite spot among savvy Lisboetas keen to sip a well-crafted cocktail with a great view.
Tip The bar's terrace is a great place for a sundowner-the view at dusk is absolutely breathtaking as the sky turns pink and orange, and the city lights begin to twinkle below.
What's Nearby
Getting Around
A series of lifts were installed in centuries past to help locals and visitors tackle the hilly terrain, and Torel Palace is just steps from the oldest of these, the Elevador do Lavra, which was built in 1184. Still in full working order, the cast iron contraption whisks visitors down to the Avenida da Liberdade, with its abundant shopping oppportunities, metro station, and easy walk to Rossio and Lisbon's pombaline downtown. The hotel is less than six miles from the aiport, and a cab ride is both speedy and relatively inexpensive. The lively Bairro Alto, famous for its bars and restaurants, is within walking distance.
Restaurants
For light bites in the open air, the kiosk at Jardim do Torel (2-minute walk) is a nice spot for salads, soups, or sandwiches with a view (and a nearby playground which makes it popular with families). For more substantial meals, O Churrasco is an unpretentious grill restaurant serving excellent grilled meat, fish, and chicken in a pleasingly unpretentious setting and at very fair prices.
Bars
The hotel is less than 20-minutes' walk from the bar-lined streets of Bairro Alto, and the newly-hip neighborhood of Intendente is closer still. In Bairro Alto, it's worth paying a visit to Portas Largas (15-20 minute walk), one of the area's best-loved and busiest bars, while in Intendente, Casa Independente (15-20 minute walk) is a hipster-pleasing space where cocktails are served in an interior patio, and live music attracts a fashionable crowd of bearded young men and sharply-dressed young women.
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