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Starting as a market town in the 10th century, Kraków became Poland's capital in 1037. Until as recently as the 19th century walls encircled the Old Town; these have been replaced by the Planty, a ring of parkland, in the 1820s. Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, the city expanded, and many interesting examples of architecture from that period can be found within the second ring, marked by Aleje and Dietla streets. In the late 20th century another phase of the city's development began farther out, and it continues today.
Most major historical attractions are within walking distance in the compact Old Town, but you'll also find very interesting sights further outside the city center, including Ko?ciuszko's Mound to the west and Nowa Huta to the east of the city center.
To the immediate southeast of the Old Town is the old Jewish quarter of Kazimierz. This was once a separate town, chartered in 1335 by its founder, King Kazimierz the Great. In 1495 Kraków's Jews were expelled from the city by King John Albert, and they resettled in Kazimierz. The Jewish community there came to an abrupt and tragic end during World War II. In 1941, the Jews of Kazimierz were moved first to a Jewish ghetto across the Vistula River in Podgórze, then to the P?aszów concentration camp. Most who survived P?aszów were transported to their deaths in the much larger concentration camp at Auschwitz–Birkenau. The story of the few Jews who escaped P?aszów through the help of businessman Oskar Schindler formed the basis of Thomas Keneally's book (and Steven Spielberg's film) Schindler's List.
Development during the 2010s has breathed a new life into the district of Podgórze, which gained as many as three new museums. The Historical Museum and MOCAK Museum of Contemporary art are both in the area of the former Schindler Factory; a third, Cricoteka, documents the work of Tadeusz Kantor. Podgórze abounds with hip restaurants and bars, and is the destination to go to if you want to get away from the crowds.
The 19th-century painter Jan Matejko was born and died in this house, which now serves as a museum for his work. Even if you don't warm to his painting, Matejko was a prodigious collector of everything from Renaissance art to medieval weaponry, and this 16th-century building is in wonderful condition.
This mound on the outskirts of Kraków was built in tribute to the memory of Tadeusz Kościuszko in 1820, three years after his death. The earth came from battlefields on which he had fought; soil from the United States was added on July 4, 1926, the 150th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence. The best place from which to get a panoramic view of the city, the mound presides above a 19th-century Austrian fort. With the same ticket, you can also visit an exhibition explaining the system and the history of the Kraków Fortress. The entrance to the exhibition is to the right, after you come back down from the top of the mound.
Directly underneath the main square, this permanent exhibition, a branch of the Kraków City Historical Museum, presents the history of the city in its European context. The interactive displays, using multimedia technology, can often feel like time travel; most importantly, it incorporates pieces of the actual archaeological site, allowing the visitor to walk over real medieval tracts (the oldest dating back to the 11th century). Layer after layer, some 1,000 years of history can be uncovered before your eyes. There's an interactive zone for children, and some fun surprises—can you spot the portrait of a medieval Polish king who actually winks at you?
Plan at least two hours to properly enjoy your visit.
Every Polish child knows the legend of the fire-breathing dragon that once terrorized residents from his Smocza Jama, a cave at the foot of Wawel Hill. Follow the signs to the ticket office opposite the castle, in the direction of the river. The dragon threatened to destroy the town unless he was fed a damsel a week. The king promised half his kingdom and his daughter's hand in marriage to any man who could slay the dragon. The usual quota of knights tried and failed. But finally a crafty cobbler named Skuba tricked the dragon into eating a lambskin filled with salt and sulfur. The dragon went wild with thirst, rushed into the Vistula River, and drank until it exploded. The Dragon's Den is still there, however, and in warmer months smoke and flame belch out of it every 15 minutes to thrill young visitors. A bronze statue of the dragon itself stands guard at the entrance.
Visiting the Dragon's Den involves a descent via a spiral stairway followed by walking on uneven ground through a rock cave, therefore it is advisable to bring comfortable walking shoes.
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