La Pia Centenaria
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Considered an institution, this white-walled, simply decorated farinateria and pizzeria dates back to 1887. It gets quite busy at lunchtime, with locals inside or, in summer, on the patio munching happily on farinata (a chickpea pancake and a Ligurian delicacy) and thick-crust pizza served hot out of the wood-burning oven.