3 Best Sights in Baia, The Bay of Naples

The Castle of Baia, which commands a 360-degree view eastward across the Bay of Pozzuoli and westward across the open Tyrrhenian, provides a fittingly dramatic setting for the Archaeological Museum of Campi Flegrei. Though the castle's foundation dates to the late 15th century, when Naples was ruled by the House of Aragon and an invasion by Charles VIII of France looked imminent, the structure was radically transformed under the Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo after the nearby eruption of Monte Nuovo in 1538. Indeed, its bastions bear a striking resemblance to the imposing Castel Sant'Elmo in Naples.

The museum has been reorganized to describe in detail the history of Cumae, Puteoli, Baiae, Misenum, and Liternum. Sculptures, architectural remains, pottery, glass, jewelry, and coins are displayed in the ex-dormitories of the soldiers. Of the various exhibitions, the first on the suggested itinerary consists of plaster casts from the Roman period found at the Baia archaeological site. This gives valuable insights into the techniques used by the Romans to make copies from Greek originals in bronze from the Classical and Hellenistic periods. Pride of place goes to the sacellum, or small sanctuary, transported from nearby Misenum and tastefully displayed inside the Aragonese tower, the Torre Tenaglia. Standing about 20 feet high, the sacellum has been reconstructed, with two of its original six columns (the rest in steel) and a marble architrave with its dedicatory inscription to the husband-and-wife team who commissioned the sanctuary's restoration in the 2nd century AD. The beneficent couple is depicted above this. Another highlight is the marble splendor of the Ninfeo Imperiale di Punta Epitaffio, or Nymphaeum of Emperor Claudius, which was discovered in 1969 some 23 feet below the waters of the Bay of Pozzuoli. Note that although this museum is poorly maintained and staffed it's well worth visiting, given that it's not often you find yourself alone among such fascinating ancient artifacts.

From the small modern-day port of Baia you can board Cymba, a boat with glass panels on its lower deck and view part of the città sommersa, the underwater city of ancient Baia. The guided tour—usually in Italian, but given in English if arranged well in advance—lasts about 75 minutes and is best undertaken in calm conditions, when you can get good glimpses of Roman columns, roads, villa walls, and mosaics. Peer through fish-flecked plexiglass at statues of Octavia Claudia (Claudius's sister) and of Ulysses, his outstretched arms and mollusk-eaten head once a part of the nymphaeum since sunk into the deeps after an outbreak of bradyseism. (Note that these statues are actually replicas. The originals are up the hill in the Castle museum.)

In antiquity this whole area was the Palatium Baianum (the Palace of Baia), dedicated to otium (leisure) and the residence of emperors from Augustus to as late as Septimius Severus in the 3rd century AD. At the park's ticket office, you should receive a small site map, and information panels in English are posted at strategic intervals. The first terrace, the Villa dell'Ambulatio, is one of the best levels from which to appreciate the site's topography: the whole hillside down to the level of the modern road near the waterfront has been modeled into flat terraces, each sporting different architectural features.

While up on the first terrace look for the depictions of dolphins, swans, and cupids in the balneum (thermal bathing, Room 13), and admire the theatrical motifs in the floor mosaic in Room 14. Below the balneum and inviting further exploration is a nymphaeum shrine, which can be reached from the western side. Make sure you get down to the so-called Temple of Mercury, on the lowest level, which has held much fascination for travelers from the 18th century onward. It has been variously interpreted as a frigidarium and as a natatio (swimming pool) and is the oldest example of a large dome (50 BC–27 BC), predating the cupola of the Pantheon in Rome. (Test the rich echo in the interior.) In summer the site often provides an unusual backdrop for evening concerts and opera performances.