Welcome to Piazza Navona, Campo de' Fiori, and the Jewish Ghetto
Making the Most of Your Time
Start at Campo de’ Fiori, where the popular market takes place every morning Monday–Saturday. The cobblestone streets that stretch out from the square are still lined with artisanal workshops. Wind your way west through the Jewish Ghetto, the historic home of Rome’s once-vibrant Jewish community (and a good place for lunch); don’t miss the area around the Portico d’Ottavia, with some of the city’s most atmospheric ruins. Heading north will take you across busy Corso Vittorio Emanuele toward the Pantheon. Duck into the piazza of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, which contains Rome's most delightful Baroque conceit, the 17th-century elephant obelisk memorial designed by Bernini, and pop into the church, which has the only Gothic interior in Rome. Straight ahead is one of the wonders of the world, the ancient Pantheon, with that postcard icon, Piazza Navona, just a few blocks to the west. You could spend about five hours exploring, not counting breaks—but taking breaks is what this area is all about.
Top Reasons to Go
Piazza Navona: This is the city's most glorious piazza—the showcase for Rome’s exuberant Baroque style. Savor Bernini's fantastic fountain, set off by the curves and steeples of Borromini's church of Sant'Agnese.
Caravaggio: Feel the power of 17th-century Rome's rebel artist in three of his finest paintings at the church of San Luigi dei Francesi.
The Pantheon: Gaze up to the heavens through the dome of Rome's best-preserved ancient temple—could this be the world's only architecturally perfect building?
Campo de' Fiori: Stroll through the morning market for a taste of the sweet life.
Via Giulia: Lined with regal palaces—still home to some of Rome's princeliest families—this is a Renaissance-era diorama you can walk through.
Portico d'Ottavia: This famed ancient Roman landmark casts a spell over Rome's time-honored Jewish Ghetto.
Getting Here
The Piazza Navona and Campo de' Fiori are an easy walk from the Vatican or Trastevere, or a half-hour stroll from the Spanish Steps. From Termini or the Vatican, take Bus No. 40 Express or the No. 64 to Largo Torre Argentina; then walk 10 minutes to either piazza. Bus No. 116 winds from Via Veneto past the Spanish Steps to Campo de' Fiori.
From the Vatican or the Spanish Steps, it's a 30-minute walk to the Jewish Ghetto, or take the No. 40 Express or the No. 64 bus from Termini station to Largo Torre Argentina.
Quick Bites
Giolitti. The Pantheon area is ice-cream heaven, with some of Rome's best gelaterias within a few steps of each other. But for many Romans, a scoop at Giolitti, which opened in 1900, is tradition. The scene at the counter often looks like the storming of the Bastille; remember to pay the cashier first, and hand the stub to the counter-person when you order your cone. Via Uffizi del Vicario 40, Piazza Navona, Rome, Latium, 00186. 06/6991243; www.giolitti.it.
Tre Scalini. The sidewalk tables of the caffè, along with its restaurant annex, offer a grandstand view of all the action of the Piazza Navona. This is the place that invented the tartufo, a luscious chocolate ice-cream specialty. Piazza Navona 30, Piazza Navona, Rome, Latium, 00184. 06/6879148; www.ristorante-3scalini.com.
