5 Best Sights in The Midlands, Ireland

Thanks to its location, this legendary monastery survived almost everything thrown at it, including raids by feuding Irish tribes, Vikings, and Normans. But when a savage English garrison arrived from Athlone in 1552, they ruthlessly ransacked and reduced the site to ruin---one account that "not a bell, large or small, an image or an altar, a book or a gem, or even a glass in a window, was left which was not carried away." A hundred years later more English tribes arrived under Cromwell to cannon-ball the infrastructure. Still, with a little imagination, you can picture life here in medieval times, when the nobles of Europe sent their sons to be educated by the local monks. The monastery was founded on an esker (natural gravel ridge) overlooking the Shannon and a marshy area known as the Callows, a distinctive landscape of shallow waters and grassy meadow land on the river's floodplains, which overflows heavily during wet winters. It was, geographically, the crossroads of Ireland in the very center of the country and The Shannon River---so logistically and strategically, very important.  

Numerous buildings and ruins remain. The small cathedral dates as far back as the 10th century but has additions from the 15th century. It was the burial place of kings of Connaught and of Tara, and of Rory O'Conor, the last High King of Ireland, who was buried here in 1198. The two Round Towers include O'Rourke's Tower, which was struck by lightning and subsequently rebuilt in the 12th century. There are eight smaller churches, the littlest of which is thought to be the burial place of St. Ciaran.

The Nun's Church's chancel arch and doorway is a fine example of Romanesque architecture.

Set in a field on its own, a 10-minute walk from the main site, this serene church is the quietest place to experience some peace. The High Crosses have been moved into the visitor center to protect them from the elements (copies stand in their original places); the best preserved of these is the Cross of the Scriptures, also known as Flann's Cross. Some of the treasures and manuscripts originating from Clonmacnoise are now housed in Dublin, most at the National Museum. A 20-minute audiovisual presentation tells the history of the settlement in English, German, Italian, and French.

Clonmacnoise has always been a prestigious burial place. Among the ancient stones are many other graves dating from the 17th to the mid-20th century. The whole place is time-burnished, though in midsummer it can be difficult to avoid the throngs of tourists. To help control the visitor flow the center requests tourists to book their time slot online and if possible choose a quieter period such as early morning or late afternoon for their visit. There are 30-minute tours every hour during the summer season. The Shop at Clonmacnoise sells books, pottery, crafts, tweeds, and perfumes, and stocks tourist information.

Close to the shores of Lough Lene is the spectacular remains of Fore Abbey—its structure is massive, and its imposing square towers and loophole windows make it resemble a castle rather than an abbey. Cast an eye over Greek masonry at the entrance to discover a 3-ton limestone lintel carved with cross—believed to have floated into place by the power of prayer. There are Seven Wonders of Fore, which include water flowing uphill, a tree that will not burn, and a mill without a millrace. Number six is an "anchorite in a stone"—a tiny hermitage connected to the abbey by a pathway. It is worth taking time to explore the 3-km (2-mile) looped walk, St. Feichin's Way---which includes his namesake's well. The views across the valley are sublime.

Founded in 1161, this fine Romanesque and Gothic-style abbey is located on the edge of town on the banks of the River Boyle, directly across from the five-arch Abbeytown Bridge, which was constructed in the same era. A glass wall supports the roof, creating an atmospheric glow later in the day. The nave is unusual in that it has a mix of architectural styles, which marks the years of construction and expansion. Animals and figures are intricately carved---and another surprise is the presence of a pagan sheila-na-gig fertility symbol. After the dissolution of the monasteries by invading forces, the abbey was transformed into a military base before becoming a cornerstone of Boyle Castle.

Coined the “Camelot on the Shannon” by romantic souls, Rindoon was built in 1227 and the population at its height was 1,000 people---a significant town in its day. By the late 13th and early 14th centuries the town was destroyed---and forgotten as the centuries passed.  Today, its town wall, castle, bee bole, medieval hospital, windmill, gatehouse, church, and mill are quite remarkably preserved.

A dramatic 150-foot-high limestone outcrop, the famous Rock of Dunamase dominates the landscape east of Portlaoise. For this reason, it was used as a military stronghold. As far back as AD 140, its occupants kept watch against marauders, and it was fought over in turn by the Vikings, Normans, Irish, and English. Today it's crowned by the ruins of a 12th-century castle, once home to Diarmuid MacMurrough, king of Leinster, who precipitated the Norman invasion when he invited the famed and feared Norman leader Strongbow to Ireland to marry his daughter. Some of the castle's thick walls still stand after it was largely destroyed during the Cromwellian invasion in 1650.

Take the short walk to its summit to enjoy the view of the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the north and the Wicklow Mountains to the south.