La Petite Madeleine
Set in a pretty, stone-fronted town house, this elegant mainstay on the city's fine-dining scene rarely disappoints. A sunlit terrace garden offers a break from the dark, sensible interior, but the food is the joy here, concocted with wit and imagination. The likes of scallops and mandarin sorbet or smoked eel with a confit of Iberian ham are past triumphs, but the menu is forever changing.