8 Best Sights in The Exuma Cays, The Exumas

Created by The Bahamas in 1958 and now overseen by the Bahamas National Trust, the 176-square-mile Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park was the first of its kind in the world—an enormous open aquarium with pristine reefs, an abundance of marine life, and sandy cays.

The park appeals to divers, who appreciate the vast underworld of limestone, reefs, drop-offs, blue holes, caves, and a multitude of exotic marine life, including one of The Bahamas' most impressive stands of rare pillar coral. Since the park is protected and its waters have essentially never been fished, you can see what the ocean looked like before humanity. For landlubbers there are hiking trails and birding sites; stop in the main office for maps. More than 200 bird species have been spotted here. At Shroud Cay, jump into the strong current that creates a natural whirlpool whipping you around a rocky outcropping to a powdery beach. On top of the hill overlooking the beach is Camp Driftwood, made famous by a hermit who dug steps to the top, leaving behind pieces of driftwood.

This is the hub of activity in the cays, and a favorite destination of yachters. That's thanks to the Staniel Cay Yacht Club—one of the best full-service marinas in the cays. Shack up in one of the cotton candy–color cottages, some perched on stilts right in the water. The club's restaurant is the place to be for lunch, dinner, and nightlife. The island has an airstrip, two hotels and a range of airbnbs, and paved roads, and virtually everything is within walking distance. Oddly enough, as you stroll past brightly painted houses and sandy shores, you are as likely to see a satellite dish as a woman pulling a bucket of water from a roadside well. At one of three grocery stores, boat owners can replenish their supplies. The friendly village also has a small red-roof church, a post office, and a Bahamian bread vendor. Staniel Cay is a great home base for visiting the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park.

Just across the water from the Staniel Cay Yacht Club is one of The Bahamas' most unforgettable attractions: Thunderball Grotto, a lovely marine cave that snorkelers (at low tide) and experienced scuba divers can explore. In the central cavern, shimmering shafts of sunlight pour through holes in the soaring ceiling and illuminate the glass-clear water. You'll see right away why this cave was chosen as an exotic setting for such movies as 007's Thunderball and Never Say Never Again, and the mermaid tale Splash.

Allen's Cay is at The Exumas' northernmost tip and home to the rare northern Bahamian rock iguana. Bring along some grapes and a stick to put them on, and these little guys will quickly become your new best friends.

Just north of Staniel Cay, Big Major Cay is home to the famous swimming pigs (it's also called Pig Beach). These guys aren't shy; as you pull up to the island, they'll dive in and swim out to greet you. Don't forget to bring some scraps; Staniel Cay restaurant gives guests bags before they depart.

Explore the many paths on the island, which is 1½ miles long and one mile wide, or sit on the dock and watch the sharks swim below—don't worry, they're harmless nurse sharks. Several houses and Airbnbs are on the island for rent. There are also two small convenience stores stocked with snacks and beverages.

If you're looking for a little civilization, stop off at Little Farmer's Cay, the first inhabited cay in the chain, about 40 minutes (18 miles) from Great Exuma. The island has two restaurants and a small grocery store where locals gather to play dominoes. But don't expect too big of a party; just around 70 people live on the island. A walk up the hill will reward you with fantastic island views.

North of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park is Norman's Cay, an island with 10 miles of rarely trod white beaches that attracts the occasional yachter. It was once the private domain of Colombian drug smuggler Carlos Lehder. It's now owned by a group of American investors. Stop by Norman's Cay Beach Club at MacDuff's for lunch or an early dinner and its "always five-o'clock-somewhere" beach cocktail.