U no Iori U
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Cormorants strut around the Japanese garden outside this café owned by a family that upholds the 1,300-year-old ukai tradition. It's a block and a half west of Ryokan Sugiyama. The menu reflects that ukai connection, with sweetfish dishes like ayu-zosui, a rice porridge, and ayu-no-narezushi, a kind of reverse sushi with the ayu stuffed full of rice.