5 Best Sights in Upper Galilee and the Golan, Israel

One of the most stunning parts of Israel, this reserve contains gushing waterfalls, dense foliage along riverbanks, and the remains of a temple dedicated to the god Pan. There are two entrances, each with a parking lot: the sign for the first reads "Banias Waterfall," and the other is 1 km (½ mile) farther along the same road and is marked "Banias."

The Banias Spring emerges at the foot of mostly limestone Mount Hermon, just where it meets the basalt layers of the Golan Heights. The most popular short route in the reserve is up to the Banias Cave, via the path that crosses the spring. Excavations have revealed five niches hewed out of the rock to the right of the cave; these are what remain of Hellenistic and Roman temples, depicted in interesting artist renderings. Three of the niches bear inscriptions in Greek, mentioning Pan, the lover of tunes; Echo, the mountain nymph; and Galerius, one of Pan's priests. All early references to the cave identify it as the source of the spring, but earthquakes over the years have changed the landscape, and the water now emerges at the foot of the cave rather than from within it.

The reserve offers three interconnected hiking trails—ask for the English-language trail map and advice at the cashier's booth. One, which passes a Crusader gate, walls, and moat, takes about 45 minutes. The second, also about 45 minutes, explores the magnificent 1,613-square-foot palace complex dating to the 1st century AD and the reign of Herod's grandson, Agrippa II, on top of which are the ruins of what is thought to have been the marketplace of the day: a string of single chambers along a well-preserved section of wall might well have been shops. The third is a 90-minute trail leading past the Officers' Pool, built by the Syrians, and a water-operated flour mill, to the thundering 33-meter-high Banias Waterfall. The trails are spiced with the pungent aroma of mint and figs, and studded with blackberry bushes. If time is short, you may prefer to take a brief walk to the falls, return to your car, then drive on to the second entrance to see the caves and the spring where the Hermon Stream originates. The cost of admission covers entry to both sites.

If you're ready for a real hiking challenge and can have a car waiting at the other end, a long, very steep trail leads from the parking lot at the Banias Nature Reserve through the oak and thorny broom forest up to Nimrod's Fortress, a 40- to 60-minute climb.

Come for the wine, stay for the delicious tapas, and find yourself hours later still at Lotem for the good company, live music, and valley views. At this organic winery, a tour and tasting includes learning about organic grapes in Israel and about why the winery plays music to the barrels and bottles 24/7. The winemaker, Jonathan, can also whip up some of the region's tastiest ceviche, fish kebabs, and salads to balance the elegant red blends. The restaurant is open on the weekends and tasting tours are possible throughout the week with advance reservations. The winery is 45 minutes by car south of Mount Meron.

The dramatic views of this towering, burly 13th-century fortress, appearing and disappearing behind each curve of the narrow road that leads to it, are part of the treat of a visit to Nimrod's Fortress (Kal'at Namrud), the largest surviving Middle Ages fortress in Israel. The Mamluk warlord al-Malik al-Aziz Othman built it in 1218 to guard the vital route against a possible Crusader reconquest after their 1187 defeat. It changed hands between Muslims and Christians in the succeeding centuries, as both vied for control of the region.

The fortress commands superb vistas of the Golan and the Upper Galilee, especially through the frames of its arched windows and the narrow archers' slits in its walls. Nimrod's Fortress is a highlight for kids, with a ladder down to a vaulted cistern, a shadowy spiral staircase, and unexpected nooks and crannies. A path leads up to the fortress's central tower, or keep, where the feudal lord would have lived.

An Australian-trained winemaker named Tal Pelter aspired to bring his modern oenology training and methodology to the Israeli market. Starting with a yearly release of 4,000 bottles and rapidly increasing production to more than 100,000 bottles, Pelter is now one of Israel's most beloved wineries. In addition Pelter makes cognac, arak, and brandy, which he offers as part of the intimate winery tours; both wine and cognac pair nicely with his wife's homemade goat cheese—also available for purchase.

This wildlife sanctuary is hard to beat for sheer natural beauty, and it also contains Tel Dan, an important archaeological site; allow an hour or two for a visit. A river, the Dan Stream, surges through it, and lacy trees provide shade. A host of small mammals lives here—many partial to water, such as the otter and the mongoose—as well as the biblical coney, also known as the hyrax. Tel Dan is home to Israel's largest rodent, the nocturnal Indian crested porcupine, and its smallest predator, the marbled polecat. The reserve has several hiking trails, and a raised wooden walkway is wheelchair accessible.

Dan was a majestic city in biblical times. According to Genesis, Abraham came here to rescue his nephew Lot and, five centuries later, Joshua led the Israelites through the area to victory. Fine ruins from several epochs lie here. Among them are the 9th-century BC city gate and the cultic site where King Jeroboam set up a golden calf to rival the Jerusalem Temple. Just inside the city gate is the platform for a throne, where the city's king pronounced judgment. One of the site's most extraordinary finds is an arched gateway dating from the 18th-century BC Canaanite period, more than a millennium earlier than scholars had previously thought.