Fodor's Expert Review Commerce Cafe

From Sarah Heard and Nathan Lemley, the chef-owners behind Austin's Foreign & Domestic, comes this modern interpretation of a country café. Their famous popovers can also be found on the menu here, and the golden-flaky layers are perfect balanced with the seasonal salad of the moment. The menu is on the short side, but everything on it has been truly perfected, from the cheeseburger to the roasted chicken with molasses carrots and mushroom jus. The real pièce de résistance is the chicken-fried steak, which is fried to featherweight perfection, topped with creamy redeye gravy, and served with herbed potato salad and lemony green beans.