Fodor's Expert Review Empellón Taqueria

Alex Stupak worked as the pastry chef at the now-closed wd-50, New York's introduction to molecular gastronomy, so when he left to open a taqueria, many diners wondered if they'd be served deconstructed tacos. Instead, they got both straightforward options (fish tempura, lamb, steak) and surprising variations (like a taco with sweetbreads and a chorizo gravy)—all well executed and made using top-notch ingredients. There are also several variations on the margarita theme, including one using the Japanese citrus, yuzu. Empellón isn't really south-of-the-border authentic, but when it's this good, who cares? White walls, dark wood tables, and some Mexican-theme art set the mood. There's a second location on Madison Avenue and 53rd Street.