Fodor's Expert Review Daisy Baker's

Plank floors, small wood tables, old organ pipes, and a high ceiling flanked by rich wood walls are reminders of this dining room's former religious uses: at various times, the 1892 brownstone has been a fundamentalist church, a Christian Science reading room, and a YWCA. The menu changes frequently and might include pancetta-wrapped veal rib chop with smashed red potatoes; grilled swordfish with cucumber strips, or roasted free-range chicken with sautéed mushrooms and onions in cherry-wine sauce. After 10 pm, a young crowd fills the long bar, and local bands play until the wee hours.