Fodor's Expert Review West

Contemporary regional cuisine is the theme at this chic restaurant, one of the city's most splurge-worthy dining rooms. The elaborate multicourse tasting menus (C$78–C$98) include vegetarian, seafood, and meat options, or come early for the three-course pre-theater menu (C$45) available only between 5:30 and 6. Among the culinary creations are butter-poached lobster and potato gnocchi in a thyme emulsion, Haida Gwaii sablefish in a three-vinegar glaze, and a duo of lamb in madeira jus. The decadent desserts might include fennel cheesecake with blueberries and gingersnap cookies or a chocolate almond torte with coronation grape ice cream. Marble floors, high ceilings, and a wall of wine make the space feel simultaneously energetic and cozy.