Fodor's Expert Review La Pigua

Glass walls replicate an oblong Mayan house, incorporating the profusion of plants outside as a design element here at the town's favorite lunch spot. Seafood, with a campechano twist, reigns supreme here. A truly ambitious meal might start with a plate of calamari, stone-crab claws, or camarones al coco (coconut-encrusted shrimp). Memorable mains include pan de cazón (a shark-meat casserole that's one of Campeche's most distinctive dishes) and fresh robalo fish topped with puréed cilantro, parsley, orange, and olive oil. For dessert, the classic choice is ate, slabs of supercondensed mango, sweet potato, or other fruit or vegetable jelly served with tangy Gouda cheese. As the sun goes down, candles adorn the white-linen tablecloths, and soft blue lighting illuminates the outside atrium. Known for: pan de cazón (shark-meat casserole); yummy seafood appetizers; unusual setting.