Fodor's Expert Review Café Bolero

This small restaurant and gallery in an old building behind the Posada Freeman in the Centro Histórico lets you drink and dine, listen and talk so unhurriedly that it's almost meditative. The kitchen, which specializes in grilled meats and fish, serves until about 10:30 pm, but the bar is open long into the night. You're encouraged to listen to the music (nightly after 8 pm), consider the paintings, maybe read something in the small library, and engage in the lost art of conversation.