Fodor's Expert Review Restaurante Peña Los Jarritos

This cavelike restaurant might only be open on Friday and Saturday, but it has unforgettable regional cuisine and a fun atmosphere with live music. Even simple items like the salsas and frijoles (black beans) are intensely flavored. There's an exquisite sopa de setas (soup of oyster mushrooms), or you could try the signature dish, enchiladas de picadillo con mole de olla (ground beef and raisin enchiladas with a savory local mole).