Fodor's Expert Review Il Rifugio

At this family-run local spot, the rustic dining area—with terra-cotta floors, brick pillars, and a wood-burning stove—is packed nearly every night. The service, presentation, and wine list are as exceptional as the food: only the freshest local meats and cheeses are served, and all the dishes are made from scratch, including the pizza (available evenings only), the pasta, and the semifreddo ice cream drizzled with honey. Orchestrated by chef Francesco Nanu, the menu might feature such starters as culurgiones (ravioli) stuffed with toasted almonds, orange zest and guanciale (cured pig cheek) followed by courses of grilled seafood, lamb with fresh broad beans, or porcetto sardo (roasted pork).  The daily tasting menu is a very good deal.