Fodor's Expert Review Panagiota

It is well worth climbing the 263 steps leading from the main road up to the church of Agios Georgios, where the lovely smells wafting from the kitchen of this hilltop institution, from the 1930s, will prepare you for a tasty meal. Start with local specialty opsimotyri (tart yogurt dip) and the house salad of shredded red cabbage, carrot, and grilled mushrooms. Then, dig into a plump bifteki (ground-meat patty) flavored with parsley, or dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) with a creamy lemon sauce. The lamb stewed on vine leaves is also a favorite with regular clients. Reservations are essential during winter weekends, when there is Greek live music and the impromptu party continues until the early morning hours.