Fodor's Expert Review L'Arpège

Breton-born Alain Passard, one of the most respected chefs in Paris, famously shocked the French culinary world by declaring that he was bored with meat. Though his vegetarianism is more lofty than practical—L'Arpège still caters to fish and poultry eaters—he does cultivate his own vegetables outside Paris, and his dishes elevate the humblest produce to sublime heights. On his menus, you might find salt-roasted beets with aged balsamic vinegar, leeks with black truffles, black radishes, and cardon, a kind of thistle related to the artichoke, with Parmigiano-Reggiano. The understated decor places the emphasis firmly on the food, but try to avoid the gloomy cellar room.