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Although this region contains fine restaurants—in fact, two of the country's top dozen dining establishments are here—most of the dining in the small towns of the Eastern Alps will take place in Gasthöfs or Gasthäuses—chalet-style country hotels and inns with flower-decked balconies and overhanging eaves. Note that in many cases such inns are closed in the off-season, particularly November and possibly April or May.
Every last detail, from romantic furnishings to the doting service, is done to perfection here, making this restaurant the best in the area. Chef Johanna Maier's way with trout is exquisite, but don't overlook the game, roast poultry, or veal sweetbreads. Finish with topfenknödel (cream cheese dumpling), a house specialty. Frau Maier offers cooking courses several times each month—call for dates. The restaurant is within the equally plush and inviting hotel of the same name.
Idyllically set on the east side of the Stubnerkogel, directly on the ski slope, this Alpine hut is one of the oldest in Europe, remarkably well preserved, with wooden interiors and a huge open fire. Wooden parlors and a big terrace, with a spectacular view over Bad Gastein, invite visitors in for a substantial meal, followed by a couple of drinks after a hike or long skiing day. Try the roasted Hörnchen (a kind of pasta) with liverwurst hash and endive potato salad, or one of the desserts, such as traditional Austrian Kaiserschmarrn (chopped up pancakes served with fruit compote, often apple or plum) or Schwarzbeernocken (blackberry or blueberry dumplings). You'll need a car or taxi to get here; in winter you can ski in or take the restaurant's own chairlift. Reservations are highly recommended during winter, when it's a popular après-ski spot. For the complete Alpine experience, it also has 12 nice rooms.
Among Austria's top dining spots, Obauer is presided over by the brothers Karl and Rudolf, who share chef-de-cuisine responsibilities. Thanks to their flair, this has become a culinary shrine, especially for Salzburgers and Germans. The cuisine creatively mixes local delights and herbs with nouvelle garnishes, many inspired by the brothers' far-flung travels. Trout strudel with Veltliner sauce, Honey quail with nettle, pear mustard and sherry sauce, stuffed zucchini blossoms with wild thyme and mushrooms—any of these specialties might top the nightly bill of fare and are highly recommended. For a complete experience you can also book one of Obauer's 11 chic and modern guest rooms and suites and enjoy a memorable breakfast in the morning.
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