Havana

Music is a Cuban passion rivaled only by baseball and the Revolution itself. Everyone here knows who El Médico de la Salsa (The Salsa Doctor) is and what type of music he plays. Los Van Van, Beny Moré, and Compay Segundo are all celebrities on the order of Frank Sinatra, the Beatles, or Elvis. Caribbean, Spanish, African, and American rhythms have been combined to create more than three-dozen musical styles, which are themselves evolving into still more varieties. To experience the music of Cuba is to learn about it, and Havana offers plenty of opportunities for both. The city also has splashy cabaret revues as well as jazz haunts and cafés that offer quieter entertainment.

Dance performances—from traditional ballet to traditional Afro-Cuban—are also options. If your Spanish is good, you'll appreciate the active film, theater, and literary scenes. You don't need any Spanish to enjoy the art exhibited in Havana's many galleries. Attire at theaters and other venues ranges from cocktail dresses and jackets and ties to blue jeans and shorts. Tickets are nearly always available (check with your hotel concierge) at box offices and are very inexpensive by European or North American standards.

Cartelera, a Spanish-English weekly published by the Instituto Cubano del Libro and usually available free at major hotels, lists concerts, plays, and other artistic events. Opciones is another bilingual weekly publication with cultural listings. The Programación Cultural, published monthly in Spanish by the Oficina del Historiador de la Ciudad (Office of the City Historian), has what is probably the most complete schedule of events. Ask for a copy at Museo de la Ciudad in the Plaza de Armas.

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  • 1. El Floridita

    La Habana Vieja

    This time warp of a restaurant was known to have been a hangout of Ernest Hemingway and prides itself as being the "cradle of the daiquiri." In 1953, Esquire even dubbed the bar one of the seven most famous in the world. It's always jam-packed with tourists dancing away to a hot Cuban band any time of day or night. The atmosphere is dark and austere, with oversize waiters dressed in undersize red-and-white formal wear plying away daiquiris or other cocktails. A life-size sculpture of Hemingway overlooks the bar eternally.

    Calle Obispo 557, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
    7867–1299

    Nightlife Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 2. O'Reilly 304

    La Habana Vieja | Tapas Bars

    For somewhere that's set firmly in the modern day (and to see what Havana's future is all about), head to O'Reilly 304, a funky gin and tapas bar set up by owner José Carlos. Downstairs is packed with locals and tourists, eyeing up the elaborate cocktails mixed by bartender Wilson Hernandez (among the best you'll see or taste anywhere in the world), while upstairs, surrounded by bare-brick walls, patrons enjoy innovative tapas dishes such as ceviche, croquetas, or tacos (between CUC$3 and CUC$6 per dish).

    Calle O'Reilly 304, Havana, 10100, Cuba
    -7612–425
  • 3. Cabaret Parisién

    Vedado

    The ever-popular and always hopping Hotel Nacional, offers up another winning performance with its wild cabaret show. The lively show is followed by equally wild dancing by the audience. If you don't want to fork out for the Tropicana, then this is the place to come. The cover charge is CUC$35; CUC$50 gets you both dinner and the performance.

    Calle O y Calle 21, Havana, La Habana, 10400, Cuba
    7836–3663
  • 4. Café Cantante "Mi Habana"

    Vedado

    On the upper edge of Vedado near the Plaza de la Revolución, this lively disco-bar often has musical performances and dance or comedy shows. It's very popular with locals and is a great place to experience nightlife away from the touristy Havana Vieja venues.

    Calle Paseo y Calle 39, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
    7879--0710
  • 5. Café Madrigal Bar

    Vedado

    Housed upstairs in a stunning peach-color mansion in leafy Vedado, this quirky bohemian cocktail bar is something very different from the usual Havana venues. Its bare brick walls are filled with unusual artwork, old vintage cameras and rolls of film, and its dimly lighted tables make it both cozy and romantic. Sit at the back on the old comfy sofa or out on the atmospheric balcony with dazzling city views. Popular with both locals and visitors, it's open Tuesday--Sunday 6 pm--2 am.

    Calle 17, No. 809, Havana, La Habana, 10400, Cuba
    7831--2433
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  • 6. Café Paris

    La Habana Vieja

    This 24-hour standby usually offers entertainment by one of the city's excellent trios. No matter how many times you have heard "Guantanamera," these performers always give it new meaning. If you can't find much else going on in Havana Vieja at night, you can guarantee something will be happening here. This place has become so popular, in fact, that it's hard to find a seat either inside or out.

    Calle San Ignacio 22, esq. de Calle Obispo, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7862–0466
  • 7. Café Taberna

    La Habana Vieja

    Named after its one-time owner Juan Bautista Taberna, this was Havana's first café when it opened at the very same spot in 1772. The rhythms of in-house band Conjunto Roberto Faz and their guests are some of the best you'll hear in Havana Vieja. The tall ceilings, retro atmosphere, and impressive wooden cocktail bar give this resto-bar a notable place among Havana Vieja establishments. Tickets for a dinner and performance must be booked in advance.

    Calle Brasil/Teniente Rey, esq. de Calle Mercaderes, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7861–1637
  • 8. Casa de la Música

    Centro Habana

    Havana's best known and most popular night club and live-music venue is not to be missed. The club has two locations, one in Centro and one in Miramar; the Miramar location is a bit classier and more laid-back. They both attract big-name Cuban acts such as Los Van Van, however, they also perform reggaeton, boy-band Latin pop, and even electronica. Try to find out ahead of time who will be playing, so you're not disappointed. Entry prices vary from CUC$5 to CUC$25 depending on the band.

    Av. de Italia (Galiano), e/Concordia y Neptuno, Havana, La Habana, 10200, Cuba
    7204–0447
  • 9. Casa de la Música Miramar

    Playa

    The Miramar branch of the famous Casa de la Música, also has excellent live bands.

    Av. 35, esq. de Calle 20, Havana, La Habana, 11300, Cuba
    7204–0447

    Nightlife Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$5–CUC$25
  • 10. Dos Hermanos

    La Habana Vieja

    Located next to the Museo del Ron, you'll step back in time when you walk through the door, and get the feel for life along the wharf. This, too, was once a Hemingway haunt, and it was also frequented at one time or another by Marlon Brando and Federico García Lorca.

    Av. del Puerto/Calle Desamparado/San Pedro y Calle Sol, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7861–7845
  • 11. El Gato Tuerto

    Vedado

    Just steps from the Hotel Nacional, this dark and smoky bar offers live boleros-style music downstairs and a less than average restaurant upstairs. It can be a great option once the tunes get going later on into the night.

    Calle O, e/Calle 17 y Calle 19, Havana, La Habana, 10400, Cuba
    7838–2696
  • 12. Fabrica de Arte Cubano

    Vedado

    Located in the same old oil factory as the restaurant El Cocinero, this place has quickly become one of Havana's hippest night spots. Open Thursday–--Sunday from 8 pm to 4 am, an array of performances are scheduled from jazz and contemporary dance to theater, DJs, and exhibitions. There's also a wine-and-tapas bar and various intimate spaces to chill out.

    Calle 26, e/Calles 11 y 13, Havana, La Habana, Cuba

    Nightlife Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$2
  • 13. Factoría Cerveza Plaza Vieja

    La Habana Vieja

    Situated right on the atmospheric Plaza Vieja, this place is always full (day or night), and there's usually some excellent live music. As the name suggests, this spot specializes in beer, which it brews itself. Choose from light, dark, black beer or malt served in large pint-size glasses or beer tubes, so that you can serve yourself right from your table. If you get a little peckish, check out the pizzas and salads, or meat from the outdoor grill.

    Calle San Ignacio, esq. de Muralla, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7866–4453
  • 14. Habana Café

    Vedado

    In the downstairs lobby of the Hotel Meliá Cohiba, this nightclub and cabaret offers a show with a torrid mix of live music and red-hot dance performances. When the main performance is over, patrons and professional dancers both join in the fray. It also offers an à la carte menu from 9 pm to 2:30 am.

    Calle Paseo, e/Calle 1 y Calle 3, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
    7833–3636
  • 15. Jazz Café

    Vedado

    Situated in a shopping complex across the road from the Meliá Cohiba hotel is Havana's other jazz place, and a good one it is. The many jam sessions and the introduction of new jazz groups mean there's lots of improvisation and hot young musicians, as well as big-name acts. It acts like a jazz-cum-supper club, where tickets include dinner and a cover charge for the music.

    Havana, La Habana, 10400, Cuba
    7862–6401

    Nightlife Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$10
  • 16. Jazz Club La Zorra y el Cuervo

    Vedado

    Don't be alarmed. You must enter through an old English red phone box, before you descend into the city's premier jazz venue. Unlike most of Havana's music venues, the sounds make you snap your fingers and shake your head instead of everything else. Shows are held nightly, and the great-value CUC$10 cover includes two cocktails.

    Calle 23/La Rampa, e/Calle N y Calle O, Havana, La Habana, 10400, Cuba
    7833–2402
  • 17. La Bodeguita del Medio

    La Habana Vieja

    Havana's best-known bar is a great place to hoist one for Hemingway. It's always packed with tourists looking expectantly toward the door as if Papa himself were about to swagger in and belly up to the bar. According to the man himself, this is theplace to order a mojito, as seen by the author's quote written on the wall "My mojito in La Bodeguita, My daiquiri in El Floridita." In reality the mojitos are no better here than anywhere else, but it's the atmosphere that counts. There's also an upstairs restaurant serving up typical criollo fare. Walls here are pasted with visitors' notes and pictures of the many notables that have passed through over the years, including Nat King Cole and Harry Belafonte.

    Calle Empedrado 207, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7862–4498

    Nightlife Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 18. La Cecilia

    Miramar

    This dinner and show spectacle has a feather-clad chorus, who dance to incandescent salsa. The place goes disco between and after performances and also hosts a lot of good bands. It's mainly frequented by tour groups.

    Av. 5, e/Calle 110 y Calle 112, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
    7204–1562
  • 19. La Lluvia de Oro

    La Habana Vieja

    This is one of your best bets for late-night entertainment in Havana Vieja, even though these days it's mostly full of tourists. It's also always full of life and is a good starting point for a night on the town. Impromptu salsa dancing often breaks out here later on in the evening, too.

    Calle Obispo 316, esq. de Calle Aguiar, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7862–9870
  • 20. Monserrate

    La Habana Vieja

    This place hops all evening long, usually to the tune of a hot trio. Just across the road from here you'll see the Castillo del Farnés, where Fidel Castro used to hang out during his student days. It's not particularly notable for food or drinks, but is worth a look for historical reference.

    Av. de la Bélgica/Misiones/Edigio/Monserrate, esq. de Calle Obrapía, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7860–9751

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