Upper South Island and the West Coast Restaurants

In Marlborough visit a winery restaurant—there's no better way to ensure that your meal suits what you're drinking. Cloudy Bay clams are harvested here, salmon and Greenshell mussels are farmed in the Marlborough Sounds, and local crops—besides grapes—include cherries and garlic. In Kaikoura try crayfish. The region is named after this delicacy (In M?ori, kai means "food" and koura means "lobster"). Nelson is also famous for seafood, in particular scallops, and for fresh produce and, yes, for wine. On the West Coast, try the local delicacy whitebait fritters—a sort of omelet filled with the whitebait—tiny, young eel-like fish netted at river mouths as they migrate upstream in late spring.

Some restaurants in more remote tourist regions close in winter (June through August); others may curtail their hours. In summer, all doors are open and it's best to make reservations. If a restaurant is open on a major holiday, it may add a surcharge to your bill.

Year-round, the restaurants and cafés around the glaciers and other remote spots can be quick to close their doors at night. Arrive by 8:30 (it's sometimes even earlier in winter) or you might go hungry. Some of the smallest towns, including Punakaiki, settlements in the Marlborough Sounds, and parts of Golden Bay, have few cafés and no general stores, so bring your own supplies.

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  • 1. Hislops Wholefoods Café

    $$$

    This wholesome foodie café is a local institution, a few minutes' walk north of town and worth the trip. In the morning you'll find tasty free-range eggs and bacon, plus freshly baked, genuinely stone-ground whole-grain bread served with marmalade or their own honey. The lunch and dinner menus use organic ingredients wherever possible, and there are wheat- and gluten-free options as well. On sunny days, snag a table on the veranda.

    33a Beach Rd., Kaikoura, Canterbury, 7300, New Zealand
    03-319–6971

    Known For

    • House-made bircher and organic muesli bowls for breakfast
    • Open fish sandwiches
    • Mountain and ocean views

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner
  • 2. Hopgoods & Co.

    $$$$

    Chef–owner Kevin Hopgood focuses on using regional produce and regularly wins national restaurant awards for this small, eponymously named bistro-restaurant. Along with the à la carte menu, Hopgoods offers a five-course degustation tasting spectacle, plus an ever-changing two- or three-course bistro-style menu on Monday and Tuesday. This dinner spot is likely to be busy, though the service is always attentive and discreet.

    284 Trafalgar St., Nelson, Nelson, 7010, New Zealand
    03-545–7191

    Known For

    • Angus beef fillet
    • Duck confit
    • Big crowds so reservations are a good idea

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No lunch
  • 3. Matheson Cafe

    $$$$ | Coffee

    The food at this all-day café is great (a huge breakfast menu, burgers at lunch, beef rib eye, and lamb cutlets for dinner) but the scenery steals the show. If the weather plays ball you'll be able to enjoy a memorably stunning view: an amphitheater of mountains (Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman) and, in the foreground, tall kahikatea forest. Lunches include salads, curries, risottos, burgers, and bagels while evening has the classics: pork belly, rib-eye steak, salmon, Merino (lamb) leg, and pastas are served.

    1 Lake Matheson Rd., Fox Glacier, West Coast, 7859, New Zealand
    03-751–0878

    Known For

    • Incredible view (weather permitting)
    • Classy evening menu worthy of special-occasion dining
    • Outside seating

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Apr.–Oct.
  • 4. Monteiths Brewing Company

    $$$

    They started brewing beer on the West Coast right here in 1868, and now the modern version of the brewery offers a full restaurant, a brewing museum, brewery tours and, of course, lots of fresh brews. The restaurant serves standard Kiwi fare, along with tapas and platters to match the beers. The brewery tours (NZ$35 includes tastings) will be in the hands of an expert brewer. You can also get your own, personally labeled bottle (NZ$10).

    60 Herbert St., Greymouth, West Coast, 7805, New Zealand
    03-768–4149

    Known For

    • Historic brewery tours
    • Antipasto platters
    • Great local brews
  • 5. Mussel Inn

    $$$

    Swing by the Mussel Inn for a quintessential slice of Golden Bay life: music, craft beer, and darn good pub food. Locals come for the live music (most evenings in summer), mussel chowder, steamed mussels, or goat curry, washed down with house-brewed beer and ciders. A favorite is the Captain Cooker—brewed first from native manuka leaves by Captain Cook to combat scurvy on his ships.  With rough sawn timber, handmade furniture, outdoor fire pit, and a big rambling garden, it’s very much a "Kiwi woolshed meets Aussie farmhouse" feel here. 

    1259 Tākaka-Collingwood Hwy., Onekaka, Tasman, 7182, New Zealand
    03-525–9241

    Known For

    • Craft beers and ciders
    • Rustic, country ambience
    • Live music

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Aug., Reservations not accepted
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  • 6. Pelorus Bridge Café

    $

    This is definitely one of the best on-the-road cafés in the whole area. Friendly locals serve great breakfasts and wholesome, homemade lunches to both passersby and the campers in the adjacent Department of Conservation campsite. The venison pies are great, too. It's located beside the rocky, tree-lined Pelorus River, where the hobbits in Lord of the Rings performed their famous "Barrel Scene." It's usually busy in January and February, but the staff takes the crowds in stride. A bonus is the swimming hole down the track just across the road. 

    State Hwy. 6, at Pelorus Bridge, Havelock, Marlborough, 7192, New Zealand
    03-571–6019

    Known For

    • House-made pies
    • Alfresco tables in beautiful bush setting
    • Busy crowds in summer
  • 7. T.O.A.D. Hall

    $$

    At this café, shop, and produce market in a former church, enjoy breakfasts of French toast, free-range eggs Benedict, or free-range eggs cooked any way you like. Then stock up for your holiday travels from the food market. Or you can just chill over a wholesome lunch like the excellent slow-roast lamb burger. There's also an interesting kids' menu, and you can indulge in the cakes and berry ice creams anytime. Beverages include fresh brews from the Townshend Brewery next door. Weekend dinners in summer feature music performances.

    502 High St., Motueka, Tasman, 7120, New Zealand
    03-528–6456

    Known For

    • Fresh, wholesome local foods
    • Wooden toys and furniture for sale made by the owners
    • Townshend Brewery beers

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner except in summer on Fri. and Sat.
  • 8. The Alice May

    $$$

    One of those cozy, buzzing places so prevalent on the West Coast, The Alice May serves country fare that is good and plentiful, with a welcome range of light meals (fish-and-chips, curries, venison burgers) and more substantial main courses (slow roasted pork belly, beef cheeks, and good vegetarian options). The wine and beer lists are stacked with mainstream NZ favorites. The Alice can get very busy over summer. Courtesy car available on request.

    30 Cron St., Franz Josef, West Coast, 7886, New Zealand
    03-752–0740

    Known For

    • Full of character and ambience
    • Great service even when packed
    • Interesting à la carte menu
  • 9. The Store at Kekerengu

    $$

    This big, indoor–outdoor café–restaurant overlooking a rolling surf beach on State Highway 1 makes one of the best road stops in the area (maybe even the whole country). You can choose lunch from a selection of prepared dishes or order from the menu. You'll find it halfway between Kaikoura and Blenheim. It's a beautiful, wild spot with the Kaikoura Mountains towering in the background. There's a huge log fire inside and a large outdoor deck with several private garden areas. Just make sure you stop early because it usually closes by 4 pm.

    5748 State Hwy. 1, Kekerengu, Canterbury, 7371, New Zealand
    03-575–8600

    Known For

    • Location with wild coastal views and sprawling gardens and lawns
    • Classic fish-and-chips
    • Outdoor deck to enjoy the view while eating

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner, Reservations essential
  • 10. Theatre Royal Hotel Kumara

    $$$

    The owners spent years restoring this old pub, and now the place hums with activity and tasty food. Locally cured bacon, venison patties, wild (bush) pork sliders, house-made pies, and salads all vie for attention on the breakfast/brunch/lunch menus. Bar snacks and baked goods are offered all-day, and dinner steps up with a stylish à la carte menu. Riders from the local cycle trail will be staying here; there's also a great local scene with live music and community events.

    81 Seddon St., Kumara, Hokitika, West Coast, 7832, New Zealand
    03-736–9277

    Known For

    • The community's local pub
    • History (ambience) meets modernity (food)
    • Classic miner's breakfast
  • 11. Arbour

    $$$$

    A friendly and very stylish eatery, Arbour is innovative and critically acclaimed yet so laid-back and hospitable. The quality produce is matched with quality local wine. Owners Bradley and Liz have brought their international, five-star hospitality experience to Arbour, just out of town on the way to the airport. The decor is simple yet sophisticated, and the garden comes into its own in summer. Various menu options vary from small plates to three, four, and "many" degustation-style courses.

    36 Godfrey Rd., Renwick, Marlborough, 7272, New Zealand
    03-572–7989

    Known For

    • Degustation-style option for chef to create entire menu for you
    • Dining in the kitchen alongside the chef
    • Great desserts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.--Tues. and Jul. No lunch
  • 12. Beechwoods Cafe

    $$

    Lots of wholesome breakfast and lunch options, hot snacks, and sweet treats are offered here. Some popular choices include the snapper (fish) sandwich, Beechwood burgers, and real fruit ice cream. This is a great place to stock up for your rafting or hiking efforts, and they manage the passing crowds well.

    32 Waller St., Murchison, Tasman, 7007, New Zealand
    03-523–9571

    Known For

    • Popular stop for bus passengers so gets crowded
    • Classic highway café
    • Nice selection of to-go foods
  • 13. Blue Ice Café

    $$$$

    Head here for quality New Zealand dishes and a bar that can carry you to the wee small hours of the morning. This place can become a late-night party spot during the tourist season. Franz Josef is small enough to walk from most accommodations to dinner, but if you do want a courtesy car, these people bring out their very own stretch hummer (for dinner only).

    5 Main Rd., Franz Josef, West Coast, 7886, New Zealand
    03-752–0707

    Known For

    • Lamb shanks
    • Huge salads
    • Party hotspot

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch May–Oct.
  • 14. Cafe Cortado

    $$$

    South American and Mediterranean influences are paired with top Marlborough wines and craft range beers at this prime waterfront spot with a laid-back atmosphere. The fresh breakfasts will sufficiently fuel you up for a day out on the Sounds. Cortado, a family-run restaurant, prides itself on its sustainable practices.

    Corner of High St. and London Quay, Picton, Marlborough, 7220, New Zealand
    03-573–5630

    Known For

    • Good selection of tapas
    • Pizzas and breakfast burritos
    • Sustainable sourcing
  • 15. Café Encounter

    $$

    Here's a bright outdoor eatery sharing space with the Dolphin and Albatross Encounter operations and a gallery/shop. Food is available off the all-day menu or from the cabinet; breakfasts and light lunches are appealing; and their cakes and slices are always tempting. The partially glassed-in courtyard is sheltered in most winds, and there's plenty of indoor seating. As at any outdoor café in Kaikoura, don't leave your food unattended because the birds will snatch it quicker than you can say "seagull!"

    96 The Esplanade, Kaikoura, Canterbury, 7300, New Zealand
    03-319–6777

    Known For

    • Waterfront views
    • House-made baking
    • Big breakfasts before you hit the sea in pursuit of dolphins and seabirds

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 16. Café Neve

    $$$

    This standout along Fox Glacier's main street sparks up no-nonsense options with fresh local flavors, such as the Neve pizza topped with mozzarella, ham, bacon, pepperoni, tomatoes, and pineapple. From breakfast and on to lunch and dinner, the menu is big and varied, taking you through eggs Benedict, BLT sandwiches, soups and chowders, burgers, chicken, pizzas, and rib-eye steak—just what you need after a day exploring or driving. Everything is prepared on-site (muffins recommended). The wine list has only New Zealand vintages, and the beers are boutique. 

    37 Main Rd., Fox Glacier, West Coast, 7886, New Zealand
    03-751–0110

    Known For

    • New Zealand--focused wine list
    • Veranda dining to watch the tourists
    • Varied menu of NZ classics

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations not accepted
  • 17. Courthouse Cafe

    $$

    In the lovely old former Collingwood Courthouse, on the main crossroads into town, this laid-back and popular café makes good use of local produce. Their big breakfast and eggs Benedict will set you up for a trip to the beach or Farewell Spit or Heaphy Track. Look also for the fresh muffins and panini, the pies and pizzas, and daily blackboard special. The coffee is good, too. There are indoor and outdoor tables, but it gets packed in summer.

    At Gibbs and Elizabeth Sts., Collingwood, Tasman, 7073, New Zealand
    03-524–8194

    Known For

    • Lots of gluten-free and vegan options
    • Breakfast tortillas
    • House-made pies

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 18. Denniston Dog

    $$$

    This old bank building is loaded with local character in its current guise as a cheerful pub and gathering spot. If the coal-mining heritage of this town interests you, you will enjoy the memorabilia and photos on display. They serve good Kiwi food here, anything from breakfast and brunch to light meals to kids' meals to stone-grill steaks and seafood. The meals are hearty, and it's a very kid-friendly spot. There's a big covered courtyard for summer dining.

    18 Wakefield St., Westport, West Coast, 7825, New Zealand
    03-789–5030

    Known For

    • Traditional New Zealand food
    • Big breakfasts
    • Stone-grilled meats and seafood
  • 19. Dodson Street Beer Garden

    $$

    In this cheery beer garden–restaurant, hearty ales and craft brews are matched with traditional German cuisine, pizzas, gourmet burgers, and Kiwi fare. If beer is your focus, you can also get a beer-tasting tray. It's not all about wine in Marlborough, but yes, there is also a good range of wines. There's also a good kids' menu. This can be a busy venue, especially when the locals are here for a big rugby game or music gig, so think about booking your table ahead of time.

    1 Dodson St., Blenheim, Marlborough, 7201, New Zealand
    03-577–8348

    Known For

    • Pork knuckles, goulash soup, strudels, and other German classics
    • Huge tap beer selection
    • Busy crowds
  • 20. DP1 Cafe

    $$

    Homey hospitality and a great vibe in this colorful, retro-style spot comes with house-cooked breakfasts (scrambled eggs are as good as you'll find anywhere), lunches, and baked goods. Plus, the outlook over the Grey River is terrific.

    104--108 Mawhera Quay, Greymouth, West Coast, 7805, New Zealand
    03-768–4005

    Known For

    • Local art on display
    • Hip, funky vibe
    • Tasty coffee and breakfasts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner

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