Fodor's Expert Review Ujin Haejangguk

At this no-frills Korean eatery—so popular that it has its own waiting hall—one of the house specialties is gosari haejangguk, a rich stew of pork and fernbrake, an edible fern that covers Jeju's fields in spring. So thick that it's almost a porridge, the stew reportedly keeps hangovers away, an assertion you could test with a bottle or two of locally produced Hallasan soju. The other specialty is gomguk, an equally rich soup of minced pork, pork bone broth and gulfweed, an edible brown seaweed. You might have to wait an hour to get in during the busiest lunch and dinner hours, but it's well worth it.