Fodor's Expert Review Deokseung Sikdang

The water off southwest Korea is seriously rough but also rich in galchi (hairtail), and there are few better places to enjoy it than Deokseung Sikdang in the port of Moseulpo. This original branch on the waterfront has been around for decades, serving fish caught that day by the Deokseung-ho, the owner's fishing boat. The galchi jorim (braised hairtail) is a local favorite and is tender, served in a wonderfully savory stew. It does tend to be a bit bony, however, so be careful while you're eating. Another specialty is the mulhoe, or raw fish or cuttlefish served in a chilled spicy soup. Deokseung Sikdang has a newer, second branch nearby that's much bigger and cleaner. If you want old school local ambiance, however, stick with the original branch.