Fodor's Expert Review Dapoer Melayu

In the spicy cauldron of Jakarta cuisine, you'll find added zest in no-frills but comfortable Dapoer Melayu, which serves food of Aceh and North Sumatra. Choose from a smorgasbord of savory chicken and mutton curries, culinary show-stopping rendang (West Sumatran–style beef simmered for days in coconut milk and spices), assorted potato and corn cakes, aromatic soups—such as gulai kepala ikan (curried fish head), and vegetable stews. The high point for some may be sambal ganja, a traditional Aceh condiment of the little green leaf mashed with garlic and chili: heady stuff.