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Old Jan 23rd, 2024, 12:15 PM
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finalizing NZ travels

Experienced travelers, our first trip to NZ. We are leaving March 26, 2024! We have looked through travel books, YouTube videos, maps and I have read numerous posts on the Fodor's site. This is my first post. We travel quite a bit and I felt it was time to get on board. I have listed our current itinerary and questions (?) in hopes those of you familiar with NZ can offer some suggestions.
22 nights - renting a car - when traveling we are interested in exploring the culture, history, scenery, food, and wine. We are older (late 60's) and physically active.
1 Fly into Auckland early AM fly on to Dunedin
3 nights Dunedin drive southern route to Te Anau
2 nights Te Anau including day drive up Milford Sound Road
1 overnight Doubtful Sound
2-3 nights? Queenstown or Wanaka somewhere to base our stay? We want to drive to Glenorchy one day, visit gardens, birdlife and scenery around Queenstown. Walk in Arrowtown and visit the Rippon Winery.
2 nights Lake Tekapo with visit to Mt. Cook Village
1 night Greymouth scenic drive from Mr. Cook (we had thought of skipping this and going north via Christchurch route)
2 nights Motueka? Scenery
3 nights in Blenheim wine tasting and scenery
Ferry from Picton - Wellington North Island
2 nights Wellington or Martinborough
1 night Napier? art deco and a break in a long drive
2 nights Tauranga? scenery and break in our drive
1 night Aukland
*In my research I have learned that travel (roads) will be scenic, and our drive slower than we are used to in the states. I have also read that most travelers prefer the South Island so have tried to spend our first two weeks there. Thank you in advance for your suggestions regarding this itinerary, and or suggestions for restaurants and places to spend the night. A few I have googled, no longer exist so looking for updates.




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Old Jan 25th, 2024, 04:35 PM
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Hi 1ChineRouge, sorry for my delay in responding. The construction in downtown Dunedin changes daily, but the area around the Dunedin Railway Station is now free of it. The construction is now concentrated in the streets about three blocks north of the Octagon, which you could easily avoid. If you only have three days for Dunedin and the Catlins, you won't have much time in Dunedin anyway, especially if you arriving from far away and need to get over jetlag on that first day. It pains me to say this, because from your itinerary I can see how much you'd like to see of this country, but your trip will be super-rushed. As you noted, our roads can be slow-going. The distances might not seem that far, but on the South Island, you'll mostly drive on two-lane roads (one for each direction) and many of these roads are winding and sometimes narrow. Seeing the notable coastal sites of the Catlins might also require a detour off the main route and doing some walking.

If you just want to rest, relax and get over jetlag on your first day in Dunedin and would prefer a calmer environment than the downtown area, but still not too far from the airport (23-minute drive), I would suggest staying around St. Clair beach instead of downtown. It's more of a regular neighborhood, there are restaurants and places to stay on the St. Clair Esplanade and around it. There is also a heated salt water pool (water is kept at 28C), if you feel like exercise. Or you can just walk along the beach, which is 3 kilometers long. It's nice for an urban beach, though it's a little busier than Dunedin's many other beaches. There is also a small "Four Square" mini-mart for groceries, wine, beer, stamps, and toiletries (toothpaste, shampoo, etc.) just a short walk from the Esplanade (4 minute walk).The #8 bus line goes from St. Clair beach to the city center bus hub (from here, it's only two blocks to the Dunedin Railway Station and/or Toitu Settlers Museum and one block to the Octagon). The bus also continues on to the Dunedin Botanic Garden and Baldwin Street and goes within a block or two of the Otago Museum, Otago University or Speight's Brewery (brewery tours and pub). The bus costs $3 a ride if you have don't have a Bee discount card. $2 if you have one. I don't think they sell them at the airport.

Dunedin's popular Tunnel Beach Track is also just about 8 minute drive from the St. Clair Esplanade. The track has been recently upgraded, so it's less steep than it used to be and now has a parking lot with toilets. Or you can just walk the track on your way from Dunedin to the Catlins. If you do so, don't leave valuables in the car and keep your luggage out of sight, hidden in the locked boot. This being said, break-ins here are uncommon. There are usuallly many other travelers around and some of these other travelers will have luggage in their cars, too..

You might see a sea lion or two on the sand on St. Clair beach, though you'd see many more on the beaches of the Otago Peninsula--and there will be pups around in March. You can see groups of them in the Catlins as well. This is one of the world's rarest and most endangered sea lions, with a population of only about 12,000, with most of these living and breeding on NZ's subantarctic islands. There around 120 adult sea lions on the NZ mainland and they are only found along this southeast corner of NZ's South Island, roughly from around Oamaru to the Catlins and the Stewart Islands, which are about an hour by ferry from Bluff. (By the way, Stewart Island is fantastic for birdwatchers.) NZ sea lions had become extinct on the mainland and only began to return in 1993, when a female sea lion ("Mum") came ashore at Dunedin's Taieri Mouth to give birth to her pup.Female sea lions will often make an effort to get away from the males during pupping season and while their pups are still young.
From the Sea Lion Trust: "Mum, as this sea lion became known, had been born and tagged in the Auckland Islands but had travelled 600 km to the mainland to have her pup. She went on to give birth to 11 pups in the Dunedin area, re-establishing a breeding population on the mainland."

There are also many fur seals in Dunedin, and unlike the sea lions who lay about on the beach sand, they are generally found on rocks. They are more easily seen on the Otago Peninsula, especially on the rocks below the Albatross colony at Taiaroa Head. Fur seals can be seen all around NZ's coastline. You will definitely see them in Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound, and along or close to many other coastal places on your itinerary


If while in Dunedin, you prefer to spend your time in the city center, there are many nice places to stay, but please read reviews beforehand to be assured of a quiet environment, where you can get a good night's sleep. It takes 26 minutes to drive from the airport to the city center, but once in the city center, you might have to drive through busy streets to your accommodation, depending on where you'll stay.

On Saturday mornings, the Otago Farmers Market is held at the railway station. The Taeri Gorge Railway leaves from here, as well. And Toitu Settlers Museum is next door. This museum tells the history of the people who have lived in this region, from the arrival of the first Maori people to present day. From the railway station, you can walk up to the Octagon, home to the Town Hall, Dunedin Public Art Gallery, DOC and I Site tourist inforrmation office, St. Paul's Anglican Cathedral (plain interior, but nice stain glass windows, some featuring local wildlife.), and many bars and restaurants. Pretty First Church of Otago is nearby (plain interior, nice setting). It wouldn't take much time at all to see all these places, about 30 minutes to an hour.

You'd probably enjoy an accommodation on the more rural Otago Peninsula, but it wouldn't be safe to drive on its roads while jetlagged and it's farther from the airport.

When driving from Dunedin to the Catlins, follow the Southern Scenic Route. It'll take about 90 minutes to get from St. Clair Beach to Nugget Point Lighthouse's parking lot in the North Catlins.There is so much to say about the Catlins and so much to see.

Dunedin is known for its cold weather, but March tends to be one of the best months.

Last edited by Diamantina; Jan 25th, 2024 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Jan 25th, 2024, 05:58 PM
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I need to double check, but I think schools holidays are from Saturday 13 April to Sunday 28 April Includes: ANZAC Day – Thursday 25 April. Also Easter Monday 1 April, Easter Tuesday 2 April (a school holiday).
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Old Jan 26th, 2024, 06:34 AM
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Diamantina, Thank you for the valuable information and the history of the sea lion population recovery, fascinating. We've decided to stay close to the city center, a hotel recommended by Fodors. I am interested in the Māori and Scottish history and architecture. Once rested we have plans to visit St. Clair Beach and are taking a wildlife cruise originating from The Royal Albatross Center. Yes, we wish we had more time for the Catlins. We plan to drive the southern route on our way to Te Anau, and are happy to at least have a peek at this area. Again, many thanks.
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Old Jan 28th, 2024, 03:35 PM
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1ChineRouge, FYI: we turn the clocks back by on 7 April 2024 at 3am. Which means, in Wellington, for example, on April 1st the sun will rise at around 7:46 am and set at 7:14 p.m. But on April 11th, the sun will rise at around 6:46 am and set at 5:57 p.m.

As you are interested in wine, I'd like to point out If you base yourself in Queenstown to visit Glenorchy and Arrowtown, you'll pass two excellent wineries, Amisfield and Mora (both near Lake Hayes), as you drive from Queenstown to Arrowtown. Both wineries have restaurants, though reservations are required for Amisfield. If instead of taking the turn toward Arrowtown, you just continue on SH6 for another 10 minutes or so, you will reach more excellent wineries in the beautiful Gibbston Valley. The famed Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge Bungee is across from the turn-off for Chard Farm Winery (just in case you'd like to have a look at thrill-seekers hurling themselves off a bridge). .

There are also many wineries in the Nelson region, not too far from Motueka, where you plan to stay.

Instead of spending 2 nts. in Tekapo, have you considered one night in Aoraki Mt. Cook and the following night in Lake Tekapo? There are a lot of walks with spectacular views in Aoraki Mt. Cook, but the weather can be hit and miss. If the weather is not so great on the day of your arrival, you might have better luck on the second day, should you choose to spend the night.. Also, this would save you the trouble of backtracking, as the drive from Lake Tekapo to Aoraki Mt. Cook takes 1 hour 20 minutes without stops--and you will want to stop as you pass Lake Pukaki. The glacier lakes of this area are known for their distinct blue color.

As you are interested in Dunedin's Māori and Scottish history and architecture, you should definitely visit Toitu Settlers Museum (free admission, though a donation is appreciated), which is just down the street from the Dunedin Railway Station. Toitu is set in four different buildings, including the old Art Deco Bus Station with its original bus ticket hall. The historic Law Courts building is across the street from the railway station, on the same side of the street as the former Dunedin Gaol. There are also some interesting buildings and murals around the warehouse district on the other side of Queens Garden.. I think you can pick up a map of the Street Art Trail from the I-Site Tourism office in the Octagon, which shares an office with Dunedin DOC (Dept. of Conservation). You'd probably be able to get brochures and advice from them about walks. You'll find an I-Site/DOC info. office in most towns, tourist areas, and at airports.

If you have time, you might enjoy the Southern Land Southern People gallery at the Otago Museum (free admission,but donations appreciated).It tells the story of this region and its people in a nutshell. You might want to pop into the museum's Tangata Whenua gallery as well. Its Maori collection is small compared to those at the Auckland War Memorial Museum and Te Papa, but there are still some treasures worth seeing, including historic carvings, a beautiful carved waka (canoe), and a small gateway by Maori artist Cliff Whiting
(6 May 1936 – 16 July 2017), who designed the impressive marae at Te Papa. It also tells the history of local early Maori settlements. The Maritime gallery and Animal Attic are also great reminders of the Victorian era. The University of Otago is across the street from the Otago Museum. Its Clocktower Complex is worth seeing.

Other notable heritage buildings in the city center include First Church of Otago, St. Paul's Cathedral in the Octagon, Knox Church, St. Joseph's Cathedral, and Otago Boy's School, Olveston House, and Larnach Castle and Gardens (on the Otago Peninsula)The buildings are not so large or elaborate, but they demonstrate how the first European settlers (who were mainly Scottish), tried to re-create the look of the familiar in their new home. You'll notice many of these buildings will have whitestone trim. This is limestone quarried in Oamaru, a lovely town to the north of Dunedin, which is best known for its Blue Penguin Colony and historic Victorian Precinct, featuring buildings made of Oamaru Whitestone. A lot of local basalt was also used for Dunedin's heritage buildings. Dunedin, like the Banks Peninsula (close to Christchurch) was part of an eroded extinct volcano. You can see basalt columns (
natural pillars made of hardened lava caused by the contraction of volcanic rock as it cools) on many local beaches.

The desire for the famillar also extended to the natural world. For example, the Otago Acclimatisation Society brought in "familiar British species, notably small birds, such as starlings, blackbirds, sparrows, chaffinches, of which populations thrive around Dunedin today." Luckily, we also still have a lot of native species in Dunedin. You'll notice these early settlers also created a Victorian Town Belt, which is also a feature of Wellington and Hamilton (all cities with notable botanic gardens)..

I don't know of a harbor cruise that leaves from Taiaroa Head, but I have enjoyed the Monarch Cruise from Weller's Rock Wharf many times. Weller's Rock, once an old whaling station, is only about a 7 minute drive from Taiaroa Head. it can be a little windy once you sail beyond the harbor, but these are actually great conditions for seeing albatross, as wind is required for lift-off. They're spectacular birds!

You'll be coming at a lovely time of year, perfect for photographing autumn leaves. The weather starts to change in April. It'll get a little cooler and you'll likely have some cloudy, rainy days. We also sometimes get a polar blast in April, that leaves snow on the mountains. You might want to check the forecast on Metservice before you set off each morning.

Last edited by Diamantina; Jan 28th, 2024 at 04:26 PM.
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Old Jan 28th, 2024, 06:46 PM
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By the way, the deciduous tree species that put on such a spectacular display in autumn in Otago and Mackenzie Region are non-native species. NZ only has 11 deciduous plants species.
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Old Jan 29th, 2024, 02:45 PM
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Diamantina,
Again, many thanks for the detailed information and the links! I had read about the school holidays but didn't know about the time change. I have made note of checking the Metservice each morning. One of the reasons we decided to start our trip in Dunedin is that we have read the South Island get cooler in April and further north stays warmer a bit longer. I continue to make adjustments to our itinerary. I removed a night from Lake Tekapo but wasn't sure where to spend it. I will look at lodging in the Mt. Cook area thanks to your suggestion. It would be fun to see the bungee jumpers, definitely not on our bucket list!
I'd prefer to stay outside of Queenstown, in a B and B or Boutique Hotel possibly in Gibbston, Cromwell or near Lake Hayes. I am currently working on this. Other changes are that we've decided to drive the east route rather than west on our way north.
1 Fly into Auckland early AM fly on to Dunedin
3 nights Dunedin drive southern route to Te Anau
2 nights Te Anau including day drive up Milford Sound Road
1 overnight Doubtful Sound
3 nights in Queenstown area. We want to drive to Glenorchy, possibly Wanaka, Arrowtown, and a few local wineries in Bannockburn, Clyde and or Alexandra
1 night Mt, Cook?
1 night Lake Tekapo
1 night around Christchurch
3 nights in Blenheim
2 nights Martinborough
1 night Napier
2 nights Tauranga
1 night Auckland?
Try not to blink, like your weather this itinerary will more than likely change.
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Old Jan 30th, 2024, 03:58 AM
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1ChineRouge, you're welcome.

Accommodation in Aoraki Mt. Cook is limited, so it books up quickly. There is also limited accommodation in nearby Glentanner (I think it's more basic, budget-style, but only 18 minutes from Aoraki Mt. Cook) and around Lake Pukaki (definitely not basic)..Hopefully, you can still find availability in Aoraki Mt. Cook.

I'm sorry that you'll be missing out on the spectacular West Coast, especially beautiful Punakaiki, but your planned drive from Lake Tekapo to Greymouth was going to be your longest one (at least 5 hours without stops), so I think your new itinerary will be more relaxing now. Though I'm also sorry you'll be missing out on visiting Abel Tasman NP.

Maybe instead of staying in Christchurch, you can find something in Waipara, also known as the North Canterbury wine region.. They make very good wine here. It would take you 3.5 hours without stops to get from Lake Tekapo to Waipara.

I think you would enjoy Wellington. It's highlights include Te Papa Museum, the Cable Car to the top of the Botanic Garden and Zealandia Ecosanctuary. It also has a lot of good restaurants and a pretty waterfront.

If you're going to be flying out from Auckland, then it makes sense to spend a night in Auckland. As it is not only NZ's most populous city, but also its largest areawise, you'd have a lot of options on where to spend your last night.

By the way, there are some excellent and beautiful wineries on Waiheke Island ("the island of wine"), which you can get to from Auckland's downtown ferry terminal in 35 minutes, but if you'll be driving up from Tauranga, you won't have time to go there. You would have time to visit the Auckland War Memorial Museum, and they have a wonderful collection of Maori treasures (taonga), including a carved meeting house (whare whakairo) and storehouse (pātaka). Its Pacific Collection is also astounding (afterall, New Zealand is a South Pacific nation). So if you don't make it to Wellington's Te Papa, try to make it to this museum. Unlike Te Papa and many other public museums around the country, admission is not free for international visitors.

There also a few wineries on mainland Auckland, including Babich in Henderson and Kumeu (known for chardonnay) and Cooper's Creek in Kumeu. Villa Maria used to have a fantastic winery that was a few minutes drive from Auckland International Airport, but when Villa Maria was sold to a new owner in 2021, its Auckland winery (in Mangere) was sold to a property developer who is turning it into a business park. It's a pity, because it was nice place for spending an hour or more before a flight.

That day from Blenheim to Wellington will also be a long one. Blenheim to Picton 25 minutes. Check in for ferry (I think you have to be there 60 minutes before sailing). Then 3.5 hours for the sailing, if it's not delayed. Then from the Wellington Terminal to Martinborough : 1 hour 20 minutes. Part of the road to Martinborough is steep, narrow and winding (S2 Remutaka Hill).

Last edited by Diamantina; Jan 30th, 2024 at 04:04 AM.
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Old Mar 24th, 2024, 08:00 AM
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Finalizing no longer, our flight to NZ leaves tonight. Like the NZ weather our itinerary has shifted a bit. I will try to give a brief summary when we return. Thank you again Diamantina for your suggestions, they were very helpful.
22 nights - renting a car - when traveling we are interested in exploring the culture, history, scenery, food, and wine. We are older (late 60's and active)
1 Fly into Auckland early AM fly on to Dunedin
3 nights Dunedin drive southern route to Te Anau
2 nights Te Anau including day drive up Milford Sound Road
1 overnight Doubtful Sound
1 night in Queenstown (visit Glenorchy)
3 nights in Clyde (visit Wanaka area wineries)
1 night Franz Josef
1-night Punakaiki
2 nights Mapau (visit Abel Tasman)
2 nights Picton - (visit Blenheim)
1 night Wellington (Te Papa Museum
1-night Martinborough

2 nights Napier (visit and lunch with our east coast families foreign exchange student of many years ago)
1 night Rotorua
1 night - last night in Tairu
Catch our evening flight from Auckland to Houston

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Old Mar 24th, 2024, 11:34 AM
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Have fun! Look forward to reading about your trip on your return.
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Old Mar 24th, 2024, 09:41 PM
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How great to be on your way! I hope you were comfortable on your flights from Houston to Auckland, then onto Dunedin.

I'm sorry to report that after a beautiful weekend our weather has become a little wet, windy and cloudy in Dunedin. The good news is by the time you set off for the rest of your trip, the rain likely will have passed. Autumn seems to have arrived early this year. It feels more like May than March. Please don't bother visiting Dunedin's St. Clair beach if the weather is awful. And please check Metservice for weather forecasts. This is the link for roadway updates.

I've been meaning to send you this link to the February issue of Kia Ora, Air New Zealand's in-flight magazine. The link is to an informative article about Martinborough and written by Bob Campbell, a "Master of WIne" and NZ's best known wine writer.

I'm glad to see you'll be visiting Abel Tasman NP and Punakaiki. Mapua is lovely and there are some nice places to eat along its wharf. There are also many nearby wineries. Neudorf makes wonderful chardonnays.

Clyde is charming, not so close to Wanaka but certainly close to many wineries. It's only about 20 mnutes from Cromwell (and another few more minutes to Bannockburn), where some of the top Central Otago wineries are located. If you cycle, Clyde is also the terminus for the Central Otago Rail trail.

Have a wonderful time!

Last edited by Diamantina; Mar 24th, 2024 at 10:13 PM.
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Old Mar 25th, 2024, 04:21 PM
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I mentioned the Dunedin Street Art trail. Though there are murals throughout the city, these are a few in the city centre; they're close to one another. The tourism office can give you a street art map.



On Princes St.near the warehouse district on the side of the Smile dentistry office.


In parking lot on Rattray St. (near Speight's Brewery). Depicts woman resting in a field as a common fantail bird (piwakawaka) alights on her hand.


Vogel St. mural in the warehouse district near Toitu Museum.



Inspired by NZ's extinct Haast eagle, which was thought to be the largest eagle to have existed but was driven to extinction after the arrival if the first humans to NZ, in about 1200 to 1300 AD. Before this, NZ was a land of birds, reptiles, and only three land mammals (all bats). You can see a Haast eagle skeleton at the Otago Museum. The museum also has the largest collection of articulated moa skeletons. NZ was one of the last large land masses to be settled by humans.


Tuatara mural. The tuatara still exists, but is rare. They are the last survivors of an order of reptiles that thrived in the age of the dinosaurs. Tuataras live at Dunedin's Orokonui Ecosanctuary, but they don't come out when it's cold.


Moa mural on Moray Place street. The moas were large flightless birds that went extinct after the arrival of the first humans. There were 9 species of moa. They were the primary source of food for the Haast eagle, so the extinction of the Haast eagle was linked to the extinction of the moa..


Bull mural near Queens Garden and the Toitu Museum.


This mural isn't downtown, but off Portsmouth Drive which runs along the harbor and turns into Portobello Drive, which leads to the Otago Peninsula. I'm just including it because I like it! It depicts the common tui (once known as the parson bird because of that little tuft of white feathers under their chin), which can be seen through out the country (but not in Christchurch, as they lack substantial urban forests). If you hear a bird singing the wildest of songs, it'll likely be a tui.


If you drive out to Baldwin Street (steepest street in the world), you might pass this mural that depicts the kaka. Kakas can be seen in the Dunedin Botanic Garden aviary and at Orokonui Ecosanctuary and at Zealandia in Wellington.


A lot of power have also been adorned by local artists:
















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Old Mar 26th, 2024, 06:07 AM
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Great photos Diamantina! That bull mural looks three dimensional.
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Old Mar 26th, 2024, 03:59 PM
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Thanks for the compliment, Melnq8. That bull looks just a 3D "in person."

It is so grey and rainy in Dunedin today. 1ChineRouge and her husband were planning to heritage buildings in the City Centre. These murals, which are surrounded by heritage architecture, might be the City Centre's most colorful attractions on this awful day..

This recent geomagnetic storm was also pretty colorful:
https://www.odt.co.nz/news/dunedin/g...bserve-auroras

1ChineRouge, here's the promising weather forecast:
https://www.odt.co.nz/regions/cold-s...oliday-weekend



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Old Mar 28th, 2024, 10:08 PM
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Interested to read your trip report when you return.
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