bolderite

All -
Thank you so much for agreeing to take a look at our plans for New Zealand in Feb 2025. At this point, we are just trying to figure out if we have alloted a good amount of time to both North and South and will fill in the details as we get closer. We are also trying to make reservations at some lodges that are small and book up quickly.
Our goal is to not feel rushed and to do as much interesting hiking and "New Zealand only” experiences as possible. We are a couple who live in Colorado and love to hike, eat, and explore. Not so keen on cities for this trip. We will end with four days in Sydney and also after driving on the left in Ireland this spring, we are trying to combine some strategic flights and longer stays to avoid too much stress within the marriage! For these reasons, I find myself wondering about things like heading out to Milford Sound for any significant amount of time given that we have been to the fjords in Norway, are not keen on tramping in the rain, and it is far, or stopping in Rotorua, which sounds very touristic.

Let me know what you think about where we might want to shift days or focus. A few questions are in bold:North Island – 14 nights

Days 1-3 Bay of Islands – 3 nights

Day 1 Arrive Auckland and fly to Kerikeri

Day 2 Kayak or Sail

Day 3 Hike/Relax

Day 4-6 Waiheke Island – 3 nights

Day 4 – fly back to Auckland, taxi to ferry, pickup by Delamore Lodge

Day 5 – explore island, wine tasting

Day 6 – ferry to Aukland or stay on island

Day 7 -9 Roturoa – Solitaire Lodge 2 nights - question #1 - should we think about skipping Rotorua and just heading to Lake Taupo

Day 7 travel to Solitaire Lodge, stop at Hobitton or glow caves ( 3 hour drive)

Day 8 Maori, bike, hike, thermal springs

Day 9-11 Lake Taupo (2 Nights)

Day 9 90 minute drive to Taupo

Day 10 – Tngaro Apline Crossing

Day 11-13 – Napier/Cape Kidnappers (2 nights)

Day 11 transfer to Napier

Day 12 – wine tasting exploring

Day 13 – explore Napier – afternoon flight to Wellington

Day 13 and 14 Wellington (2 nights)



South Island (14 nights)

Day 1 – 2 Fjordland (2 nights) Question #2 - Should we skip Fjordland and do a helicopter/day trip from Glenorchy?

Day 1 – fly to Queensland – travel to Cabot Lodge

Day 2 --Milford Sound – Cabot Lodge

Day 3-6 Glenorchy/Blanket Bay (4 nights)

Day 3 – tranfer from Te Anua

Day 4 Routeborn Track

Day 5 – Hike

Day 6 – Hike

Day 7-9– Twizel (2 nights) (#3 - put more time here?)

Day 7 transit to Twizel

Day 8 Hooker Track

Day 9-10 Christchurch ( 1 night)

Day 9 drive to Christchurch

Day 10 Train to Greymouth

Day 10-13 – Abel Tasman/Nelson ( 4 nights)

Day 14 – Nelson to Sydney

Melnq8

A bit confusing - It's easier if you plan in nights, not days. I'm from CO too, been to NZ many, many times. Beautiful place.

So, you plan to fly into Queenstown and head to Manapouri (where your lodge is) for two nights?

And then drive to Glenorchy and stay for four nights? Are you planning to hike hut to hut on the Routeburn?

Not much to do in Twizel, why do you want to stay there? If you plan to hike the Hooker Track, you might as well just stay in Mt Cook.

And then you lose me. One night in Christchurch just to train to Greymouth? The drive is much prettier.

Very ambitious. Don't underestimate the travel times - add a couple hours to any drive calculator you might be using.

I'll leave the north island for those who know it better.

bolderite

I will "translate"
3 nights Bay of Islands area (no car) -- day trips and excursions from lodge
3 nights Waiheke
2 nights Rotorua - re-thinking this
2 nights Lake Taupo, really to do Torangiro Alpine Crossing
2 nights Napier
2 nights Wellington

Fly to Queenstown and then -
2 nights Te Anau - (or not)
3 or 4 nights Glenorchy - day hikes of Routeborn Track and other areas. Could also eliminate Te Anau and do Milford Sounds via helicopter/hike and that would free up 2 nights
3 nights somewhere in Lake Tekapo/Mount Cook area to do Hooker Track and Glacier heli hike. I put in Twizel as a place holder
1 night Christchurch
Yes, we want to take the train
4 nights Able Tasman area

Does that help

Melnq8

Te Anau has some fantastic hikes on offer, I'd not skip it as you're already down that way - having said that, I'd add a night there, which would allow one full day for a hike, plus one full day for Milford, but only if the weather is fine.

Don't believe that crap about Milford looking better in the rain because of the waterfalls. I've seen Milford many times and sunshine is the way to go I've only done a helihike at the glaciers, so can't speak to the Milford helicopter, but personally, I think the drive there is the highlight, so I'd choose driving over a helicopter, but that's just me.

Shame you're missing the west coast, which I'd choose in a heartbeat over the inland (Mt Cook) route, but again just personal preference.

Diamantina

I will echo Melnq8's discouraging words about staying in Twizel, not because Twizel entirely lacks in charm (it's lovely in autumn), but because it will be too far from the views and hikes you'd hope to see from Aoraki Mt. Cook village or Lake Tekapo. I think you should look into the Hermitage Hotel or Aoraki Court Motel (ask for a room with an unobstructed view of the mountains/forest/glaciers) in Aoraki Mr. Cook village itself. Regarding dining options: The Hermitage Hotel has a lovely restaurant. Whereas the Aoraki Court Motel has cooking facilities or you'd have the option of walking to a restaurant (there aren't many). If neither of these appeal, check out luxury/boutique accommodation around Lake Pukaki, which is a 30-minute drive from Aoraki Mt. Cook village or a 42-minute drive from Lake Tekapo. I am personally not familiar with them but they are popular.

Not only would I scrap Rotorua, but I'd also give Napier a pass. I enjoyed Napier, but, unless you really want to see gannets or Art Deco architecture, I think you really need to eliminate these destinatons on the North Island to see more of the South Island and, maybe, at a more leisurely pace. Of course, Napier/Hawkes Bay also has wineries and vineyards, but the South Island and Waiheke will have plenty of wineries for you to visit.

So you'll be taking the train from Christchurch to Greymouth and then renting a car in Greymouth to drive to Abel Tasman? If you drop one or both of those North Island destinations (Rotorua and possibly Napier), you'll have time more time to spend on the South Island. Spend a night in Punakaiki (between Greymouth and Abel Tasman). This way you can do some walking here. On your way to Abel Tasman, you can also stop at Cape Foulwind.

I think you're more likely to get very fine, dry, warm weather in February, but if you do get rain in Milford Sound, it'll be all right. It rained on my first visit there (it was beautiful) and I still went back.

magsrose

I just returned from 2 days on the Milford Sound, and I laughed out loud when I saw Melnq8 's comment about the rain. The first day was so grey, almost a white out, and so so rainy and windy. I honestly hated the weather. The views were still impressive, but when I woke up the next morning and it was sunny and I could see the green on the mountains and the sun highlighting the depth of the jiords, it made my experience so much better. Go on a clear day if you can help it.

bolderite

Very helpful indeed. If we don't go to Te Anau and instead stay put in Queenstown/Glenorchy, we can watch the weather and try and time a day trip accordingly.
Any North Island folks want to defend their island and the time we have allotted -- Just Kidding
I will continue to review these comments and make adjustments!

Diamantina

I like the North Island, but I think you'll be seeing some of the best of it: you're likely to enjoy the Bay of Islands, Waiheke Island, and you'll find Wellington enjoyable and interesting. Rotorua is also very interesting if you are curious about Maori arts, crafts, and culture--and they have a popular redwood forest (as a native Northern Californian, this hasn't interested me). But Rotorua IS touristy, and you mentioned that this might not appeal to you for this reason.

Napier is really nice--I have good memories of it, but I don't think you will regret missing it (you said you are not keen on seeing cities), if instead you have more of a chance to take in the less busy, wilderness areas of the South Island. Also, as Melnq8 mentioned, it can take a while to drive on South Island roads (they're mainly two lanes, one in each direction). Not only can you become part of a procession of cars stuck behind a slow moving campervan, but you're likely to come across many places where you'll want to stop to take a walk, snap photos, take a "comfort stop", and so on. So what is touted to be a 3 hour drive, can actually take much longer.

February is cruise season. What if you find yourself in Napier on a day when two to three cruise ships visit? I live in Dunedin on the South Island. Today, we have two cruise ships in town. 7000 cruise ship passengers plus cruise ship employees. I don't mind;I like to see the city busy. It's good for local mechants and restaurateurs, but if were coming as a tourist, I might not enjoy seeing the most popular sites of this small city with so many others. And I like seeing cities (as well as rural and wilderness areas).

Thinking about your choice of accommodation in the Bay of Islands. Have you thought about staying in Paihia or Russell? These are small towns, villages, really. While you might get a cruise ship in during the day (mind you, cruise ships don't visit every day). After about 4:30 or so, they'll be back to being peaceful small towns. You might enjoy staying in Paihia or Russell so you can get out to different restaurants or go for a stroll int he late afternoon/evening.

bolderite

Thanks for all the input. Just focusing on the North Island now, I do think we should shorten up the time there and give more over to the South Island. I also discussed our "priorities" with my husband and it really is about enjoying that we have the luxury of a month since he is on a sabbatical to take things slow and also to focus on beaches, hiking/biking on terrain that we do not have here in Colorado, wining and dining
So, for North Island, how does this look --

3 nights Bay of Islands area -- somewhere near Paihia
3 nights Waiheke -

2 nights Hawke's Bay at Cape Kidnappers (fly to Wellington)
2 nights Wellington

If we want to stop along the way for a night (or two) on the drive from Aukland airport to Hawke's Bay, we could stop at Lake Taupo/Rotorua or we could stop on the coast. Any thoughts? If we add two more nights on the North Island, that would still leave 16 nights for the South Island. The plan would be to fly from Wellington to Queenstown and then work our way back up to Nelson, ending with some relaxing time in Abel Tasman area instead of ending with our longer hikes on the Routeborn and Mt. Cook. area.
Thanks in advance.

Diamantina

A couple of my closest friends live and work in Tucson. They love the desert, but when they vacation they head to the coast, for those landscapes and ocean views they can't enjoy at home. It occurred to me, after my last post to you, that you might feel the same way. And diito for the wineries and wine regions.

Have you already booked your flights and accommodations? How about the Routeburn Track? If not, look at Ultimate Hikes.

If you've not yet booked your flights, have you considered switching around the order of your visit to the South Island, maybe starting at the top--either starting in Nelson (for Nelson wineries and Abel Tasman NP hikes) or in Blenheim (Marlborough wine region), then making your way south, and finishing up your trip with those nights at luxury accommodation Blanket Bay? Also, I think if you can find a way of arranging this, you could spend a night in Queenstown itself after Blanket Bay, so that you can visit the wineries in Gibbston Valley and dine out at Amisfield Bistro or Rata (both are highly rated). Amisfield is also home to one of Central Otago's best wineries. I suggest this as you have emphasized wine and fine dining in your post. That Glenorchy Road is not one you'd want to drive after dinner with wine in Queenstown. However, if you stay in Queenstown itself, you can just call for a taxi to take you back to your hotel as it wouldn't be far. Glenorchy is also a bit far for a day trip to Gibbston Valley.

After your last night in Queenstown, you could get a direct flight to Sydney, both Air New Zealand and Jet Star offer direct flights from Queenstown to Sydney (not many, though). Have you been to Sydney before?

Were you aware that there is major wine region close to Wellington? Martinborough, along with Central Otago, is known for producing NZ's most highly rated pinot noirs (though you can also sample many other fine varietals in Martinborough and in Central Otago). Central Otago produces some wonderful rieslings, pinot noir rosιs and sparrkling wines. As you are interested in wine, I would suggest at least a half-day visiting some Central Otago wineries.

I'm wondering if you will regret not doing the Tongariro Crossing hike as it is considered the best full day hike on the North Island. On the other hand, you could make a return trip to NZ; many do.

Fijords/fiords are all different. I've only been to two or three fjords in Norway and only two fiords in NZ; and skirted the fjord from Vancouver to Whistler B.C., they're all beautiful, just different. It is absolutely worth seeing Milford or Doubtful Sound.

mlgb

Although most recommend first-timers focus on the South Island only, I have run into people who live in places with big mountains. They like the hiking but aren't so enamoured of the alpine scenery, because it's too much like home.

Some things easier to find on the North Island
Black sand beaches of the west coast
Tree fern forests
Historical sights such as at Waitangi (near Bay of Islands/Kerikeri)
Thermal parks, geysers and hot springs, plus Maori cultural offerings
Off shore islands that are wildlife reserves (Tirtiri Matangi and Kapiti Island), onshore fenced reserve (Zealandia).

I don't personally feel Waiheke Island is worth the time. Certainly not dropping Tongariro in favor of that.

There are wine regions nearly everywhere in New Zealand.

Museums, Wellington's Te Papa and the Auckland War Memorial Museum, visit at least one of these.

I did have a fun trip stumbling between wineries in Martinborough. It is accessible by train and bus from Wellington. Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, 'nuf said.

yestravel

I thought the SI far superior to the NI. I liked Wellington alot, but otherwise the NI it didn't excite me. Bay of Islands is a lot like the Caribbean which is a lot closer to me than NZ is.

Diamantina

Less than an hour's drive north of Christchurch is the Waipara/North Canterbury wine regions. Some excellent wineries here, as well. Don't become confused between Waipara and Wairarapa (the Martinborough wine region).
https://www.northcanterburywines.co.nz/sub-regions

In February 11-13, 2025, Christchurch will host Pinot Noir New Zealand, which brings together more than 100 pinot noir producers from throughout NZ.
The Marlborough Wine and Food festival is also held in February. In 2024, it will be on Saturday, Feb 10. I don't know if they've set the dates for 2025. If you want to avoid crowds, you might want to look into when it will be.
There is also a major public holiday in February. Waitangi Day, which commemorates the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, will be on Thursday, Feb. 6, 2025. The largest and most important commemoration ceremony will be on the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, which is walking distance from Paihia (25 minute walk or 2 minute drive).

Auckland to Taupo is about 3.5 hour drive, Taupo to Napier is about a 2.5 hour drive. Napier to Wellington is more than an 4 hour drive. Auckland to Tauranga (on the coast) would take under 3 hours, but Napier to Tauranga would be about 4 hours.

Melnq8

Although most recommend first-timers focus on the South Island only, I have run into people who live in places with big mountains. They like the hiking but aren't so enamoured of the alpine scenery, because it's too much like home.

I've heard this sentiment before, but it certainly doesn't apply to us (we're from Colorado). The SI of NZ and Switzerland are our favorite places in the world.

I've not visited anywhere else where the mountains meet the sea as they do in NZ. Or where you have mountains and rainforest.

As for the NI - we've only been twice in some dozen visits to NZ - it just doesn't speak to us like the SI. I also associate it with logging, which probably isn't fair as I've also seen quite a bit of logging on the SI.

Only you know what most appeals to you bolderite, but I can guarantee that you'll love NZ, no matter what you choose.

mlgb

If you like that kind of mountain scenery you should go to Chile (Torres del Paine) next, Melnq8. North Island has some of the nicest beaches I've seen anywhere (Matai Bay, Cooper's Beach, Waiwera, Otama/ Kuaotunu).

Diamantina

bolderite, because you are travelers with tastes for fine dining and wine, I thought you might appreciate this article about Amisfield executive chef Vaughan Mabee that appeared in our local newspaper a couple of days ago:
There's also an interesting interview with chef Vaughan Mabee in this month's Kia Ora (November 2023), the Air New Zealand in-flight magazine.
In case you're wondering, there are no Michelin Star restaurants in NZ or Australia (because there are no Michelin Guides for NZ or OZ, but this is expected to change in the future).
You might enjoy having a look at restaurant recommendations and reviews from NZ's Cuisine Magazine.
Or from Australia's Good Food Guide as you'll also be going to Sydney:
Of course, there are plenty of great restaurants that won't be reviewed or listed in the above guides, but this will give you an idea of what's on offer and might help you start you off on your own research.
NZ's Cuisine Magazine also publishes an online NZ winery guide. I don't think it' does the best job of updating, but think you'll still find it useful Here for example is the link to Waiheke wineries, with a downloadable map.

I recommend reading through Melnq8's NZ trip reports. Like you and your husband, she and her husband are widely-traveled, Colorado-based keen hikers, with a vast experience in hiking the South Island's best "tracks" (that's what we call hiking trails here). Melnq8 enjoys wine, too (and chocolate).

bolderite

OK, I think we are getting closer and I have a few more questions/options.
I think our time on the North Island is looking good --
3 nights Bay of Islands to decompress, kayak, get out on the water.
3 nights Waiheke - I know this is a bit "controversial" but we can ferry over to Auckland for a day or add in a day when we arrive. We are more keen for more water, wineries, relaxing and spending that first week without a car. We will fly RT from AUK to KeriKeri.
2 nights Solitaire Lodge -- we will pick up rental car in AUK, do the Hobbiton Tour on the way to Solitaire. Hike/Bike
2 nights Turangi or Acacia Lodge - only because we are going to do the Tongariro Crossing and it is too far to try and do it from Solitaire/Rotorua. I am not loving this concentration of days, but I can't see doing the crossing and then driving somewhere or making a flight from Rotorua to Wellington.
2 nights Wellington - Drive from Acacia to Napier for lunch, see the town, drop off car and fly to Wellington. Full day and ½ to explore Wellington.

South Island -
I'm committed to going South to North because we want to end in Abel Tasman
4 nights Glenorchy/Blanket Bay -- will heli-hike to Milford Sound and track, hike part of Routeborn track
To Wanaka or Not to Wanaka, that is the question.
(Had planned two nights near Wanaka to go into Mt. Aspiring , but the Rob Roy Glacie Hike is closed. I am sure there is plenty of other fine hiking.)
3 nights Lindis - will do the Hooker Valley Track and other hiking in Mount Cook.
We could go from Lindis to the west coast and spend two nights at Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge -- Google shows this as a 4 hour drive but not sure how realistic that is?
And then 1 night somewhere to break up the drive to Abel Tasman for 4 nights.
OR
skip the west coast and head from Lindis to Christchurch and spend two nights in Christchurch, but one full day taking the Tranzalpine to Arthurs Pass station, hiking there and catching the return train back to Christchurch and then flying to Nelson. I am really keen to try and work in the train because it is supposed to be amazing and can also do Arthurs Pass hiking but without the driving.

So, still looking for more input on the South Island routing.

TIA!!

mlgb

It will probably be closer to 5-6 hours for Lindis to Moeraki. Stopping for photos, one way bridges, slow camper vans, etc...

Diamantina

As you won't be visiting until Feb. 2025, there's a good chance that the Rob Roy Glacier Track will be open by then.. If so, before renting a car, check that the company you rent from will allow you to drive on Matukituki Road beyond the Treble Cone access road turn off. Parts of the road are unsealed and there might be a few fords you'll need to cross. It's a beautiful drive.
Wanaka's Diamond Lake Track offers good view of the lake: Mt. Iron offers views of the town and lake. Yes, there are lots of other options for hikers.
Note Wanaka hosts an extremely popular triathlon (Challenge Wanaka) in the middle of February. I think it's an annual event.

The West Coast of NZ's South Island is truly beaufiful. I've already mentioned this in my previous post that Punakaiki is one of the most scenic spots on the West Coast. It might be a good place for breaking up your journey from Lake Moeraki WL to Abel Tasman NP. Accommodation is limited in Punakaiki. Be forewarned; the walk to Punakaiki itself (the rocks, that is) is extremely popular, but it also doesn't take very long; it's just a 20-minute loop. The Pororari River track is also scenic. It follows the Pororari River Gorge and is the entry point for the relatively new Paparoa Great Walk (a three-day Great Walk). Lots of scenic short walks here. I've read the Mutukiekie Beach Walk (between Greymouth and Punakaiki) is gorgeous, but it can only be accessed at low tide. Take your insect repellent for the West Coast.

You might want to rent a car for Waiheke (or arrange for a private tour) to get to the wineries. I don't know where you'll be staying--in some cases you can easily take the bus or walk, but I think you'd enjoy the freedom of having a car as it would allow to get to more out-of-the-way wineries, such as the excellent Man O'War, which is on the less-developed, rural eastern end of the island. There are nice restaurants at Te Motu (The Shed), Mudbrick, and Cable Bay (among many others). Some winery restaurants are only open for lunch, though might offer a limited menu throughout the day.

bolderite

All -
Thank you so much for this group of dedicated advocates for both the North and South Island. I just love reading all of the comments, advice and the links provided within comments to other resources. It has truly bee wonderful.

As we continue to take in information and revise our trip, we have decided that we will drive from either Lindis or Lake Tekapo/Mt. Cook to Christchurch, overnight in Christchurch really just to get the Transzalpine train the following morning and then pick up a car in Greymouth and spend two nights on the West Coast in and around Punakaiki before driving to Abel Tasman. If anyone has any recent stays in the Punakaiki area, we would love to read about them!

Amy