Seville Ronda Nerja Granada: Please critique Andalucia driving itinerary.
Jul 17th, 2010, 06:50 AM
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Seville Ronda Nerja Granada: Please critique Andalucia driving itinerary.
First time in Spain. After arriving in Madrid (4 nights) and visiting Toledo and Cordoba, we will be in Seville for 3 nights. Then we will rent a car and drive through the Villas Blanca, White Villages, to Ronda. We have booked the Don Miguel in Ronda for 3 nights, then we will drive to Nerja staying at the Nerja Parador for 2 nights, for a day at the beach. This will be in September, 2010. Thence, driving to Granada (3 nights), dump the car, fly to Barcelona (3 nights) then home.
My request for assistance is in the routes to take while driving in Andalucia. My plan is to rent the car in Seville, leaving Seville maybe late morning (10-11 am), driving to Arcos and lunching and taking in the old town. In the afternoon, drive to Ronda, taking in some of the white villages, but try to get to Ronda not too late.
With three nights, have one day to lounge around and visit Ronda, the other to drive and see the other highlights of the White Villages, before heading south to Costa del Sol.
I have reviewed guide books and a Michelin map of Andalucia (#578). I’ve come up with the following tentative route. We want to see old city centers and historic things, along with incredible scenery; kind of drift along on a route, ready to stop or divert somewhere on a whim.
From Arcos, take A372 to El Bosque, then down to Ubrique. From there, it looks like I have two choices, but don’t know driving times, so need help here. Could go south, but probably best to go east from Ubrique A2302 direction Villaluenga del Rosario, A372 to A374 then south to Ronda.
The second day, we would try a loop drive north from Ronda, trying to take in Olvera, Zahara, Grazalema and points in between. Hopefully, this would be a bit of liesurely driving day. Any “must sees” on this day in the vicinity of these towns? I would tend to stay on the smaller roads, those with a green line (scenic) on the Michelin map. We don’t shy away from “challenging” roads.
The third day, I figure we just spend walking around Ronda. Maybe do some laundry and generally take it easy.
Activity of Day 2 and 3 could be reversed.
After leaving Ronda, map looks like I would take A397 south to Costa del Sol coming out near San Pedro. Could use any comments or advice on driving from there to Nerja. Looks like driving along the ocean is more interesting, but more time? I think the Parador is on Playa de Burriana, a bit east of Nerja proper.
North to Granada: Any comments on taking the A4050 north from Almunecar, direction Jete - Venta del Fraile, instead of the major road A44 north from Salobrena? 4050 seems like a much more interesting road with vista points. I’m certain it will take more time.
I understand checking the car in at the Granada airport is a good idea, saves driving in Granada, which I want to avoid if I can. But the airport seems far out of town. Is there a better place to dump the car?
Any assistance provided will be gratefully accepted.
My request for assistance is in the routes to take while driving in Andalucia. My plan is to rent the car in Seville, leaving Seville maybe late morning (10-11 am), driving to Arcos and lunching and taking in the old town. In the afternoon, drive to Ronda, taking in some of the white villages, but try to get to Ronda not too late.
With three nights, have one day to lounge around and visit Ronda, the other to drive and see the other highlights of the White Villages, before heading south to Costa del Sol.
I have reviewed guide books and a Michelin map of Andalucia (#578). I’ve come up with the following tentative route. We want to see old city centers and historic things, along with incredible scenery; kind of drift along on a route, ready to stop or divert somewhere on a whim.
From Arcos, take A372 to El Bosque, then down to Ubrique. From there, it looks like I have two choices, but don’t know driving times, so need help here. Could go south, but probably best to go east from Ubrique A2302 direction Villaluenga del Rosario, A372 to A374 then south to Ronda.
The second day, we would try a loop drive north from Ronda, trying to take in Olvera, Zahara, Grazalema and points in between. Hopefully, this would be a bit of liesurely driving day. Any “must sees” on this day in the vicinity of these towns? I would tend to stay on the smaller roads, those with a green line (scenic) on the Michelin map. We don’t shy away from “challenging” roads.
The third day, I figure we just spend walking around Ronda. Maybe do some laundry and generally take it easy.
Activity of Day 2 and 3 could be reversed.
After leaving Ronda, map looks like I would take A397 south to Costa del Sol coming out near San Pedro. Could use any comments or advice on driving from there to Nerja. Looks like driving along the ocean is more interesting, but more time? I think the Parador is on Playa de Burriana, a bit east of Nerja proper.
North to Granada: Any comments on taking the A4050 north from Almunecar, direction Jete - Venta del Fraile, instead of the major road A44 north from Salobrena? 4050 seems like a much more interesting road with vista points. I’m certain it will take more time.
I understand checking the car in at the Granada airport is a good idea, saves driving in Granada, which I want to avoid if I can. But the airport seems far out of town. Is there a better place to dump the car?
Any assistance provided will be gratefully accepted.
Jul 17th, 2010, 08:34 AM
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I can't help much with the driving portion of this trip but I'm sure others will jump in soon.
I would probably take a day from Granada and add it to Barcelona. 2 days is adequate for Granada but 3 days in Barcelona is a litle tight.
I would probably take a day from Granada and add it to Barcelona. 2 days is adequate for Granada but 3 days in Barcelona is a litle tight.
Jul 17th, 2010, 04:04 PM
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I second the idea of adding a day to Barcelona (but watch those pickpockets on the metro and just plain thieves on Las Ramblas!)
You should stay only two nights in Ronda, because you will get your fill of the Pueblos Blancos on the day between Arcos and Ronda.
BTW, I highly recommend Grazalema (lively, inviting), but did not warm to Zahara (hot, not welcoming). Also, I found Arcos not too swell – it is fine, really, but not exciting, and it too is a white town on a hill.
So, to summarize, from Arcos, take the main road A382 toward Ronda, then cut off to Grazalema and visit (you could zip through Zahara en route), and arrive in Ronda late in the day. Spend the next day there and leave the following morning for the Costa del Sol. That frees up a day for Barcelona.
The Don Miguel is wonderful (have dinner at their restaurant overlooking the gorge at least one night). Try to get a room with a view of the gorge and bridge. Whatever you do, avoid a meal at the parador in Ronda – quite mediocre and the setting is abysmal.
(I realize the above means you would have to cancel one night at the Don Miguel but, really, Ronda is not full of top-drawer sights and a full day there is really enough.)
Otherwise, it sounds like a good route. Be prepared to really love Cordoba, which was the surprise hit of our two-week swing through Andalucia in June.
You should stay only two nights in Ronda, because you will get your fill of the Pueblos Blancos on the day between Arcos and Ronda.
BTW, I highly recommend Grazalema (lively, inviting), but did not warm to Zahara (hot, not welcoming). Also, I found Arcos not too swell – it is fine, really, but not exciting, and it too is a white town on a hill.
So, to summarize, from Arcos, take the main road A382 toward Ronda, then cut off to Grazalema and visit (you could zip through Zahara en route), and arrive in Ronda late in the day. Spend the next day there and leave the following morning for the Costa del Sol. That frees up a day for Barcelona.
The Don Miguel is wonderful (have dinner at their restaurant overlooking the gorge at least one night). Try to get a room with a view of the gorge and bridge. Whatever you do, avoid a meal at the parador in Ronda – quite mediocre and the setting is abysmal.
(I realize the above means you would have to cancel one night at the Don Miguel but, really, Ronda is not full of top-drawer sights and a full day there is really enough.)
Otherwise, it sounds like a good route. Be prepared to really love Cordoba, which was the surprise hit of our two-week swing through Andalucia in June.
Jul 18th, 2010, 10:50 AM
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The Parador in Nerja is situated on a cliff above the Playa Burriana and on level and five minutes walking to the center of town. Excellent location, elevator from the hotel directly down to the Burriana beach.
My favourite beach in Nerja would nevertheless be Playa El Salón, 10 mins walking from the parador: http://www.nerjatoday.com/nerjabeachguide/el-salon/
Restaurante La Marina is as good as you get a seafood freiduría in all of Andalucía: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandrestaurants/la-marina/
Fabolous tapas and atmosphere at El Pulguilla, close to the Balcón de Europa. Free tapas to choose with every glass of wine, beer etc. in the bar area: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres.../el-pulguilla/
Two great tapas bars/restaurants popular with locals close to the Parador, Los Cuñaos and La Puntilla:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...s/la-puntilla/
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...ts/los-cunaos/
For fine dining, I would recommend Sollun, Casa Luque and Udo Heimer. All excellent places:
http://www.sollunrestaurante.com/
http://www.casaluque.com/restaurant-in-nerja.php
http://www.udoheimer.net/english.html
My favourite beach in Nerja would nevertheless be Playa El Salón, 10 mins walking from the parador: http://www.nerjatoday.com/nerjabeachguide/el-salon/
Restaurante La Marina is as good as you get a seafood freiduría in all of Andalucía: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandrestaurants/la-marina/
Fabolous tapas and atmosphere at El Pulguilla, close to the Balcón de Europa. Free tapas to choose with every glass of wine, beer etc. in the bar area: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres.../el-pulguilla/
Two great tapas bars/restaurants popular with locals close to the Parador, Los Cuñaos and La Puntilla:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...s/la-puntilla/
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...ts/los-cunaos/
For fine dining, I would recommend Sollun, Casa Luque and Udo Heimer. All excellent places:
http://www.sollunrestaurante.com/
http://www.casaluque.com/restaurant-in-nerja.php
http://www.udoheimer.net/english.html
Jul 18th, 2010, 01:08 PM
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you've gotten some great advice and I just wanted to add that you could drop the car at the train station in Granada. that's what we did and it was fairly easy to find (just using google maps). and if you're staying near the cathedral, a taxi ride is fairly short, about 10-15 minutes.
we too rented a car from Sevilla, stopped in Ronda for lunch and then spent two nights in Malaga. drove to Granada from Malaga with a stop at Nerja for our "beach day". alas, it was too windy for the beach so we were content to just put our feet in the sea. I don't have my map in front of me but the A374 sounds familiar for what we took to Ronda. we took the ocean front highway thinking it would be more scenic. It was and it wasn't. the area is very built up so you see alot of hotels, etc. But, it was still a scenic drive. Seeing that blue, blue sea is very nice! That highway is the A7.
we too rented a car from Sevilla, stopped in Ronda for lunch and then spent two nights in Malaga. drove to Granada from Malaga with a stop at Nerja for our "beach day". alas, it was too windy for the beach so we were content to just put our feet in the sea. I don't have my map in front of me but the A374 sounds familiar for what we took to Ronda. we took the ocean front highway thinking it would be more scenic. It was and it wasn't. the area is very built up so you see alot of hotels, etc. But, it was still a scenic drive. Seeing that blue, blue sea is very nice! That highway is the A7.
Jul 18th, 2010, 05:25 PM
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You guys are great! Thanks for all the info and ideas. Yes, I am reviewing our schedule now with the idea of adding a day to Barcelona. Whether it's a day off of Ronda or Granada, we'll see.
I am reviewing the routes discussed. Thanks so much.
The info on white villages and Nerja is just what I was looking for.
Now, has anyone taken the A 4050 from Almunecar? Sure looks tempting.
I am reviewing the routes discussed. Thanks so much.
The info on white villages and Nerja is just what I was looking for.
Now, has anyone taken the A 4050 from Almunecar? Sure looks tempting.
Jul 18th, 2010, 11:04 PM
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Haven't taken the A 4050 from Almuñecar yet, but plan to do so. The road, known as the Moor's Sigh, is said to be quite spectacular. The name comes from the legenedary sigh of Boabdil, the last emir of Granada, when he at the mountain pass known as Puerto del Suspiro del Moro, for a last time had a look back upon the now lost city. His mother shall then have said: "You cry like a woman over a city you couldn't defend as a man". On way to Granada, you should take your time to stop and look back on the sea.
http://www.holavalencia.net/2010/02/...and-almunecar/
http://www.holavalencia.net/2010/02/...and-almunecar/
Jul 19th, 2010, 04:14 PM
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Thanks for that link, Kimhe. That did it. I'm taking the "Suspiro del Moro." viamichelin says about 2 hours to Granada; 72 km's. I knew it would be slow, traced it on Google earth. Sounds well worth it though.
Turns out we have 4 nights in Barcelona, 2 nights in Granada. So that's the best I can do. We'll probably be frustrated for not enough time in Barcelona (or Granada), but from what I read, a week is not even enough. So, reasons to return, eh? The joy of travel. The agonies of planning.
Turns out we have 4 nights in Barcelona, 2 nights in Granada. So that's the best I can do. We'll probably be frustrated for not enough time in Barcelona (or Granada), but from what I read, a week is not even enough. So, reasons to return, eh? The joy of travel. The agonies of planning.
Jul 19th, 2010, 04:55 PM
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I would just suggest you leave Seville at the crack of dawn. That should give you time to get to and see all your stops on the way to Ronda. Most importantly, plan to arrive in Ronda well before sunset. It gets dark early in the mountains, lots of switchbacks, no lights, etc. The driving time from Seville to El Bosque is about 2 hours without stops. The drive from El Bosque is to Rondo (whether you go via Ubrique or not) is about 1 hour without stops - assuming you can go the speed limit (I couldn't, I don't know HOW the locals zip around those curves!). If you are more cautious on twisty mountain roads, the drive from El Bosque is to Rondo closer to 2 hours without stops.
Jul 19th, 2010, 08:09 PM
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OK, Bardo1. Great to get those driving times. Viamichelin not so precise on those twisty mountain roads.
So if it's 1 - 1.5 hours Seville to Arcos, plus look around time in Arcos, then another 3-4 hours to Ronda (without stops), looks like a long day. Glad we have more days in the mountains to give it a better look.
Thanks a lot everybody.
So if it's 1 - 1.5 hours Seville to Arcos, plus look around time in Arcos, then another 3-4 hours to Ronda (without stops), looks like a long day. Glad we have more days in the mountains to give it a better look.
Thanks a lot everybody.
