Provence in April, 2014, Part 2
May 3rd, 2014, 01:56 PM
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Provence in April, 2014, Part 2
My first installment covered our stay in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, now we head to Marseille.
Marseille Part 1
We drove back to Marseille, which took about 1 1/2 hours. As usual driving wasn't a problem until we reached the city. I wish we could have figured out a way to ditch the car while we were in Marseille. The parking was expensive and getting in and out of the city was often harrowing. I told my daughter more than once that if she valued her dad's and my marriage, she would sit in front and navigate. We had the car so we could make day trips from Marseille, where my daughter is living, and there didn't seem to be a way around it. She lives on the peninsula of Malmousque, which is about 15 minutes away from the old port. It was an easy bus ride along the sea to get there and back to and from the apartment we rented near the old port, so we only used the car when we went out of town.
I found the apartment through Homelidays. In the photos I loved the tall ceilings and big windows of the Haussmann architecture, and it did look like that on the inside. The outside and the corridor were a little rougher looking than the inside, with graffiti and crumbling tiles. (I accept that as part of the Marseille experience.) There was an elevator, and that's what helped me choose this 4th floor apartment over another on the 5th with no elevator in the same convenient area of town.
We really feel Marseille is underrated. My daughter especially loves it. (Keep in mind that we're from Indianapolis.) She likes to say that when she walks 4 minutes from home in 3 different directions she's at the Mediterranean Sea! She can walk, ride a bike, or take public transporattion wherever she needs to go. (By the way, she takes gorgeous photos and posts them on Instagram if you want to follow her. She is Natattack3000.)
The city is beautiful and the people have been very nice. It's a big city and big cities can be exhausting; and it's not what you think of when you think of charming, quaint, Provence. But it's beautiful with the sea and the gorgeous southern France light, and the multi-cultural vibe is so interesting. Here's how Julia Child described Marseille when she lived there: “The air was brisk and breezy, and the harbor was redolent of sewage and decaying fish. There were mobs of sailors, soldiers, Arabs, gamins, whores, pickpockets, shopkeepers, tourists and citizens of every shape and size, all moiling and shouting.” (She loved Marseille.)
After meeting up with our other daughter and 1 of the boyfriends (one was working), we checked into our apartment then headed for (what else?) food! We ate crepes at La Crepe au Carré, a rustic-looking creperie on the Place aux Huiles. The square crepes were great, especially my Nutella one for dessert. Then we caught the tram that goes from the old port up to Notre Dame de la Garde, the church at the top of the hill seen from all over Marseille. It is topped with a golden Mother Mary and child, or as the recorded English commentary on the tram said, "Mother and kid". The commentary was a little quirky, but we really enjoyed the ride up the steep hills, and when we got there the views of Marseille were spectacular. I would have liked to have more time to explore the church, but the tram was heading down in 25 minutes. (Maybe it's possible to catch a later tram?)
We relaxed at the apartment with a little pastis, wine, and wifi. At dinnertime we didn't really have a plan, but we walked around and found a menu that looked good. We ate at Bar XO, and we all liked our food but I don't remember it very well. We often get the "menus" with 3 courses (good excuse to get dessert). We sat at a big square table for 6 on a patio protected from that good old Provencal wind. It was fun to all be together.
Marseille Part 1
We drove back to Marseille, which took about 1 1/2 hours. As usual driving wasn't a problem until we reached the city. I wish we could have figured out a way to ditch the car while we were in Marseille. The parking was expensive and getting in and out of the city was often harrowing. I told my daughter more than once that if she valued her dad's and my marriage, she would sit in front and navigate. We had the car so we could make day trips from Marseille, where my daughter is living, and there didn't seem to be a way around it. She lives on the peninsula of Malmousque, which is about 15 minutes away from the old port. It was an easy bus ride along the sea to get there and back to and from the apartment we rented near the old port, so we only used the car when we went out of town.
I found the apartment through Homelidays. In the photos I loved the tall ceilings and big windows of the Haussmann architecture, and it did look like that on the inside. The outside and the corridor were a little rougher looking than the inside, with graffiti and crumbling tiles. (I accept that as part of the Marseille experience.) There was an elevator, and that's what helped me choose this 4th floor apartment over another on the 5th with no elevator in the same convenient area of town.
We really feel Marseille is underrated. My daughter especially loves it. (Keep in mind that we're from Indianapolis.) She likes to say that when she walks 4 minutes from home in 3 different directions she's at the Mediterranean Sea! She can walk, ride a bike, or take public transporattion wherever she needs to go. (By the way, she takes gorgeous photos and posts them on Instagram if you want to follow her. She is Natattack3000.)
The city is beautiful and the people have been very nice. It's a big city and big cities can be exhausting; and it's not what you think of when you think of charming, quaint, Provence. But it's beautiful with the sea and the gorgeous southern France light, and the multi-cultural vibe is so interesting. Here's how Julia Child described Marseille when she lived there: “The air was brisk and breezy, and the harbor was redolent of sewage and decaying fish. There were mobs of sailors, soldiers, Arabs, gamins, whores, pickpockets, shopkeepers, tourists and citizens of every shape and size, all moiling and shouting.” (She loved Marseille.)
After meeting up with our other daughter and 1 of the boyfriends (one was working), we checked into our apartment then headed for (what else?) food! We ate crepes at La Crepe au Carré, a rustic-looking creperie on the Place aux Huiles. The square crepes were great, especially my Nutella one for dessert. Then we caught the tram that goes from the old port up to Notre Dame de la Garde, the church at the top of the hill seen from all over Marseille. It is topped with a golden Mother Mary and child, or as the recorded English commentary on the tram said, "Mother and kid". The commentary was a little quirky, but we really enjoyed the ride up the steep hills, and when we got there the views of Marseille were spectacular. I would have liked to have more time to explore the church, but the tram was heading down in 25 minutes. (Maybe it's possible to catch a later tram?)
We relaxed at the apartment with a little pastis, wine, and wifi. At dinnertime we didn't really have a plan, but we walked around and found a menu that looked good. We ate at Bar XO, and we all liked our food but I don't remember it very well. We often get the "menus" with 3 courses (good excuse to get dessert). We sat at a big square table for 6 on a patio protected from that good old Provencal wind. It was fun to all be together.
May 3rd, 2014, 02:00 PM
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We spent 3 days in Marseille last year and found it to be very interesting. It has a bad rep and while it is a city and a bit gritty, we thought that it was handed a bum rep. It is much maligned but we rather enjoyed our time there. We did get rid of our rental as soon as we arrived, so much better with out it.
May 4th, 2014, 09:27 AM
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DebitNM, that would be great! We haven't decide when to go yet and I need to do my research on Sante Fe (We've never been there.). We were thinking about August for our 30th anniversary, but we might be better off waiting until fall break in October.
Oct 3rd, 2014, 03:11 AM
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Wow! I'm envious. To stay for 3 months sounds heavenly! I was trying to figure out if there's a way to go to the balloon festival from Santa Fe. For several reasons we aren't able to stay in Albuquerque overnight, and it sounds like traffic is awful if we try to drive there in the early morning. Did I see there's a light rail between the cities? I suppose that wouldn't get us there early enough. We would also love advice for an easy hike and any hidden gem restaurants or activities.
Oct 3rd, 2014, 04:37 AM
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Sadly, the Rail Runner doesn't appear to provide help for weekend events.
http://www.balloonfiesta.com/
http://www.balloonfiesta.com/uploads...st%20Guide.pdf
IF you can in anyway do it - I would drive in. Yes, the traffic is awful but if you are willing to leave SF REALLY early, it will be so worth your time! There is nothing like it, at all!
Dress warmly [in layers as it will warm up as the sun comes up and bring a small flash light to help walk around the field]. This is the only event of this size that allows you to walk on the field right up to the balloons and watch them inflate!!
I'll be back with hike info. Are you from sea level? Do you mean flat hike, or can you handle some elevation gain at altitude??
http://www.balloonfiesta.com/
http://www.balloonfiesta.com/uploads...st%20Guide.pdf
IF you can in anyway do it - I would drive in. Yes, the traffic is awful but if you are willing to leave SF REALLY early, it will be so worth your time! There is nothing like it, at all!
Dress warmly [in layers as it will warm up as the sun comes up and bring a small flash light to help walk around the field]. This is the only event of this size that allows you to walk on the field right up to the balloons and watch them inflate!!
I'll be back with hike info. Are you from sea level? Do you mean flat hike, or can you handle some elevation gain at altitude??
Oct 3rd, 2014, 11:10 AM
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We live in Indianapolis--no elevation in sight, but we can handle some elevation, I think. I hope the altitude won't be a problem. We're decent hikers, but not mountain climbers, and my old hips do hurt if I go more than a couple hours walking.
As far as ballon fiesta goes, is there a day of the week that's better (or just base it on weather)? We arrive in Santa Fe on Thursday and leave Monday morning. I wish we had more time!
I understand if you're too busy getting ready for your own trip to give advice! Where are you going?
As far as ballon fiesta goes, is there a day of the week that's better (or just base it on weather)? We arrive in Santa Fe on Thursday and leave Monday morning. I wish we had more time!
I understand if you're too busy getting ready for your own trip to give advice! Where are you going?
Oct 3rd, 2014, 04:24 PM
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The weekends are better, more balloons aloft. BUT Friday morning will be a Glow-deo which is fun will all of the special shapes. First weekend better than second [some pilots don't stay the entire 10 days] but that's tomorrow so I guess you must be going next weekend.
Oct 4th, 2014, 08:48 AM
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{Correction - Friday morning is Special Shapes Rodeo; the Glow-deo is at night}
Balloon Fiesta was great this morning! Perfect weather and it took close to 2 hours for them all to lauch, the skies were loaded with balloons!
Tent Rocks is a great hike
http://www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/rec...ent_rocks.html
The traffic was pretty heavy but it's a small price to pay to see this amazing bucket list site!
http://trailsallianceofsantafe.org/local-trails/
Balloon Fiesta was great this morning! Perfect weather and it took close to 2 hours for them all to lauch, the skies were loaded with balloons!
Tent Rocks is a great hike
http://www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/rec...ent_rocks.html
The traffic was pretty heavy but it's a small price to pay to see this amazing bucket list site!
http://trailsallianceofsantafe.org/local-trails/
Oct 4th, 2014, 09:01 AM
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Oct 5th, 2014, 10:00 AM
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Thanks so much, DebitNM! We will definitely get up early to see the Balloon Fiesta. Do we really need to arrive by 5 am, and do you recommend the park and ride?
The hikes look great too and we will check those out!
The hikes look great too and we will check those out!
Oct 5th, 2014, 03:41 PM
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We left our house at 5:30 am and the traffic was already awful. So, yeah, you do.
And park and ride is good IF you are already IN ABQ; coming from Santa Fe - I would just bite the bullet and drive in and park.
FYI - the balloons didn't launch today; winds were to high. Always be prepared for possibility of flights being scrubbed
and have an extra back up day for second attempt.
And park and ride is good IF you are already IN ABQ; coming from Santa Fe - I would just bite the bullet and drive in and park.
FYI - the balloons didn't launch today; winds were to high. Always be prepared for possibility of flights being scrubbed
and have an extra back up day for second attempt.
Oct 6th, 2014, 04:13 AM
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Okay, that does simplify it a little if we go straight to the park. I think we will go Friday so we can try again if necessary, and maybe it will be less crowded. Maybe jet-lag will work in our favor! Can't wait!
Oct 6th, 2014, 07:04 AM
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We really loved the view from Notre Dame de la Garde. We walked from the train station to the old port to get that tram/bus.
Anyone taking a cab from station, check about the high flat rate to the port. Hopefully, enough folks objected and it has changed.
Anyone taking a cab from station, check about the high flat rate to the port. Hopefully, enough folks objected and it has changed.
