Iwan2go

I’m in the process of planning a trip next May to northern Italy and would appreciate your input. We’ll stay around 12-14 nights, and limit ourselves to four overnight locations. We can go either just before or just after Mother’s Day (May 8th, 2016). We will be taking trains, not renting a car.

We’re in our late 60s, good physical shape, and enjoy architecture, history, walking, gardens (we especially love gardens!), good food and pleasant hotels and surroundings. I’ll ask on another post about specific hotels, but I would like to get ideas on the number of days to stay in each location. We have been to Venice on a prior trip and will not include it this time. While we went to Florence several years ago, I’d like to stay again for three nights.

Here’s my tentative itinerary:
LAX - Genoa, cab to Santa Margherita Ligure in the late afternoon

SML: three or four nights (how many do we need?)
Walk around that area, take a day train to the Cinque Terre to hike, see Portofino, I really want to see the Abbey Girolamo/ La Cervara, which I take it is only open on Sundays.

Bellagio or Varenna, three or four nights
Gardens and villas, take a boat tour, relax, maybe train to Milan for a day

Verona, three nights
Verona, train to Padua (the Scrovegni Chapel, we’ll get tickets ahead), Vicenza/ Palladio

Florence, three nights
See things we missed last time, re-visit the Uffizzi, etc

Fly out of Florence - Lax via CDG

Questions: Should we allot the four nights to SML (figuring jet lag and giving an extra optional day for the CT, in case of rain) OR Bellagio? Or AND Bellagio?

Is there an advantage or disadvantage to going in late April (we would be departing April 20th, and would be in Verona on May 1st) versus May? I have heard that there can be more rain in April, so I’m leaning towards May - and the flights are more convenient in May.

Thanks so much for sharing your experiences, and I look forward to your replies.

Dukey1

I would not do a daytrip FROM the mid-lake Como area to Milan. If I did Milan I would do it on the way TO Verona or on the way TO the mid-lake area.

Bellagio is attractive and probably won't be as crowded as it will be later in the year (funny thing about that town...NOBODY ever calls it a tourist trap and yet it can be mobbed at times so go figure).

I like Verona (be there in a couple weeks) and you will be there before the opera season kicks off so fewer visitors I suspect.

kja

"Should we allot the four nights to SML (figuring jet lag and giving an extra optional day for the CT, in case of rain)"

You can't count on hiking the Cinque Terre on any particular day, as rain can force closure of trails. But if you have several days in Santa Margherita Ligure, perhaps you can time your visit to the Cinque Terre accordingly?

I trust you know that some of the trails in the Cinque Terre remain closed after damage experienced a few years ago...

DebitNM

We were in Bellagio this past May. It was very nice, not crowded and except for 1 day when it rained, it was lovely weather.

We had thought about staying in Varenna instead of Bellagio and we're glad we didn't - there was very little open in terms of restaurants and shops. We would have been bored silly if we had stayed there and would have spent every day elsewhere. Also, the ferries don't run that latest if you wanted Togo to Bellagio to have dinner you'd be stuck for a way to get back to Varenna.

We were there 4 nights and thought it was about the right time as it gave us 3 full days to explore.

Iwan2go

Perfect, thanks Debit regarding Bellagio versus Varenna as the base. One thing I was somewhat concerned about was lugging our bags from the train to the boat. Do they have options (provided by hotels?) to do that? I try to pack as lightly as possible but it's still a pain.

I did think about the extra day in SMLigure to give several days for the Cinque Terre. Is anyone familiar with the abbey? What do you suggest if we have time to see more - train to Genoa, or somewhere else within say a one hour train ride.

Thanks for the info on a day trip to Milan. Because we will have luggage, I don't foresee a stopover unless we added a night.

Looking forward to more help! Thanks very much.

sandralist

May might be marginally better than April in terms of less rain, but you are trying to thread a needle. However very late April and all of May is likely to be better for flowers.

I hope you are planning to see Giardino Giusti when you are in Verona. I've never been to the historic botanic garden in Padova, but you might want to check it out.

I have never been to the historic garden in Genova, but you might want to check it out. However, if you decide to go, it might make sense for you to go directly there upon arrival and spend one night there, then go to Santa Margherita the following day. I would expect the first taxi ride to be fairly cheap, and you could get your b&b to find you a reasonably taxi ride for the journey to SML

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_Durazzo-Pallavicini

If you want to sightsee in Milan without spending the night you can put your luggage in the train station. Since you will be passing through Milan on your way to Verona, that might be as good as a day trip and less time spent on trains.

maxima

If the flights are better for you in May, then go in May. If you can do 14 nights, I would do that rather than 12. Each time you change locations you lose at least a half day traveling, getting to your accommodations, and getting orientated.

I too would recommend that you do not do a day trip to Milan, as you need to travel via Milan to Verona. If you want to see the Last Supper, book your tickets early. You will be allotted 15 minutes inside, after that you may want to go to the cathedral, and if the weather is good be sure to walk on the roof. take the elevator up, its worth it. you can take a taxi or the metro from the train station.


Not quite sure what you mean by a boat tour on Lake Como.
Perhaps you want to hire a boat for a few hours that will take you to various places. There is a ferry system that makes stops at different places along the lake. For instance from Bellagio, you can take a ferry to other sites such as the Villa Carlotta, where you can visit the villa and gardens.

sandralist

If you are at all intrigued by Villa Durazzo Pallavincini, determine whether it is open before you make serious plans to go. There is some indication from recent reviews on Tripadvisor that it might not be, despite the park website saying otherwise. This can be true, by the way, of lots of attractions in Italy, so always best to get recent information.

Iwan2go

Thanks again, everyone. Maxima, I saw that there is a private boat tour that takes you to the Villa Balbianello - that’s what I was referring to. I think that it will depend on how flush we feel when we get there...

Sandra, thank you for the warning about the gardens in Genoa.

Does anyone have info on the Monastery/abbey of San Girolamo/ La Cervara? If it’s really special (and it looks like it is), then I will try to be in SML on a Sunday.

And again, what was your experience getting from the Varenna/Esino train station to the boat dock for Bellagio?

Iwan2go

After looking into flights, trains, etc, I’m thinking of revising the itinerary slightly. If we fly into Florence, we get in a few hours earlier, and as the airport is much closer to the city it will be easier after the long flight (not to mention that then we can take the Air France Airbus flight, which I love because of the staircase I can walk up and down. Little things make a big difference!).

I was also concerned about getting from the last place to the outbound airport, but I’ve discovered that there is an airport bus from Milan Centrale train station to Linate. That looks like spending the last night in Verona is an option, as there are frequent, direct trains to Milan.

Here’s my new plan:

LAX - Florence via CDG, arrive 2:45 pm

Florence - 3 nights (get acclimated in a city we’re familiar with)

Santa Margheria Ligure - 3 nights

Bellagio -4 nights

Verona - 4 nights (maybe even make a trip to Mantua or Venice, we can decide when we are there)

Train from Verona - Milan Centrale, departs 10:00 - arrives 11:30; take the Airbus to Linate (30 minutes), arrive around 12:30 for a 3:50 flight.

How’s that sound? Thanks a lot.

DebitNM

Varenna train station to ferry dock is downhill on cobbled streets. There are supposed to be taxis around, we didn't see any but again, it was early May and there didn't seem anyone was around. Maybe a 10-15 minute walk?

maxima

There are companies in Bellagio that run a boat with a tour to Villa Balbianello. If that proves too expensive , you could take the ferry from Bellagio to Lenno (just 2 stops on the lake I think the first will be Tremezzo) and the waterfront of Lenno is not very long. From Lenno you can walk to Villa Balbianello, its about 20-25 minutes. or you may find a private speed boat in Lenno that will take you there. Check and see what days it is open. Also there are private functions there.. your hotel should be able to tell you if the Villa is open or not.


There are guided tours of the house, and you can walk around the gardens. The site is run by the Italian National Trust.

Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo and Villa Melzi in Bellagio both have lovely gardens

dreamon

Agree with DebitNM about the walk from Varenna train station to the ferry dock but I would say less than 10 minutes and most of it is on asphalt. We were there about a month ago. We stayed in Varenna and preferred it to Bellagio but both are lovely so you can't go wrong.

I think your plan sounds fine. btw we travelled from Venice to Varenna and didn't go through Milan (differently to what people have said above). Of course, you can if you want, but you don't have to.

I tend to be nervous about being far from the airport before a journey where the ticket isn't flexible. You could consider staying your last night in Bergamo which is a lovely town.

Iwan2go

Dreamon (BTW I like your name!) - I understand your concern about being an hour away. The only reason I’d consider it is that there are such frequent trains on that line. If we were really stuck I guess we could take a cab - it would cost the earth, but at least we wouldn’t miss the flight. We’ll probably get there quite early to make sure.

OTOH, we might decide to just stay the night in Milan. I was just trying to minimize moving places. We have found that four locations, minimum of three nights in each, works well for us. Otherwise it’s not a vacation - it’s too much packing!

Thanks again everybody! Your comments and experiences are very helpful. I have bookmarked lots of the gardens and villas!